New Jersey Hunters banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

I'm done with fixed blade broadheads

Jump to Latest
21 - 40 of 47 Posts
#26 ·
I’m going to play ignorance here; I’ve never had my bow tuned. Never missed a deer. And found every one I shot. With that being said I should have my bow tuned. Being an amateur, wouldn’t it make sense to tune a bow not using a human? A vise or something permanent so as to take human error or improper shooting out of the equation?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#28 ·
Your bow can be tuned to perfection. There is one major thing that people are missing here, your arrow and broadhead. Do you own an arrow spinner and an arrow squaring device? You can take a perfectly tuned bow with field points and your arrows can shoot all over the place if the broadhead is not in perfect line with the arrow. I probably spend more time tuning my arrows than my bow, ask my wife about my OCD for archery. All of my arrows are perfectly squared to my broadheads. I have shot fixed blade broad heads out to eighty yards with same poi with broadheads and field points. I have achieved this accuracy with Magnus Stingers, Wasp Drone's and Thunderhead 100's all my making sure everything is square.

Before I learned all about this arrow squaring stuff I missed a doe at 17 yards. The arrow literally did a left and turn in the air. I was very upset with myself trying to figure out what "I" did wrong. Took bow home and checked my tune, spot on with bareshaft at 30 yards. Shot the same arrow and missed target at 30 yards again. I ran down to the archery shop and picked up an arrow spinner and squaring device. I found that the broadhead had a bad wobble. I squared the front of the arrow and reinstallled the Thunderhead. Spun it again, perfect spin. I then shot again from 30 yards and the arrow hit same poi as field point.

I hunt with 4 arrows in my quiver. It probably takes me 30 minutes to fill my quiver to make sure the arrows spin perfect.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
njbowhntr said:
Your bow can be tuned to perfection. There is one major thing that people are missing here, your arrow and broadhead. Do you own an arrow spinner and an arrow squaring device? You can take a perfectly tuned bow with field points and your arrows can shoot all over the place if the broadhead is not in perfect line with the arrow. I probably spend more time tuning my arrows than my bow, ask my wife about my OCD for archery. All of my arrows are perfectly squared to my broadheads. I have shot fixed blade broad heads out to eighty yards with same poi with broadheads and field points. I have achieved this accuracy with Magnus Stingers, Wasp Drone's and Thunderhead 100's all my making sure everything is square.

Before I learned all about this arrow squaring stuff I missed a doe at 17 yards. The arrow literally did a left and turn in the air. I was very upset with myself trying to figure out what "I" did wrong. Took bow home and checked my tune, spot on with bareshaft at 30 yards. Shot the same arrow and missed target at 30 yards again. I ran down to the archery shop and picked up an arrow spinner and squaring device. I found that the broadhead had a bad wobble. I squared the front of the arrow and reinstallled the Thunderhead. Spun it again, perfect spin. I then shot again from 30 yards and the arrow hit same poi as field point.

I hunt with 4 arrows in my quiver. It probably takes me 30 minutes to fill my quiver to make sure the arrows spin perfect.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. I wasn't aware of squaring, but I'll get a device and try it. I hope I can get the bushings out of the arrows. I assume you can heat the glue and pull them out.
 
#30 ·
Removing inserts may not need to be done, but easy to do.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/474009/lumenok-fast-fletched-arrow-squaring-tool-aluminum-black?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Archery+-+Arrow+Building+%26+Bow+Maintenance&utm_content=474009&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Archery+-+Arrow+Building+%26+Bow+Maintenance-_-Lumenok-_-474009&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItbrvk6-s1wIVBLXACh2JXwcwEAQYBCABEgKlz_D_BwE

This is the tool I use.

If if you have remove an insert, put in a field point. Heat field point, not arrow. They pop out with a good tug. Make sure to not over heat carbon. Just enough heat to loosen glue.

Let me know if you need any help with the process.
 
#31 ·
NJ Bowhuntr-

What is involved with squaring your arrows? I cut and fletch all of my own arrows but have never spin tested them or squared the broadheads. The majority fly very well but I do get a flyer occasionally and just down't hunt with those particular arrows. What you are saying makes perfect sense to me as evrything is more in lne from the nocing point to the tip of the braodhead but I just need to understand the equipment needed and process involved.

Thanks-
 
#33 ·
I just spin my arrows like a top, if there is no wobble they shoot good. I shoot FMJ axis so if there is a wobble I put them back on the burr stone that comes with them and spin/sand them till they spin true.

It could be a number of things on your bow that can make it shoot bad. I had a Hoyt vetrix that no matter what I did to it I could not get it to tune (I do all my own bow work and have forever) turns out its cam lean that I couldn't get rid of. So I scraped that junk and bought a Prime bow that is designed to eliminate the problems other bows have and it's just an amazing bow to shoot and the little tuning there is is cake.
 
#35 ·
Maybe it’s just me....but, I think there is so much over Analization with everything these days...I’ve only ever paper tune a bow, Never spent any time tuning my arrows they spin straight in my hand good enough for me....Give me a clean shot out to 30 yards and an arrow is going in the vitals...

Another perplexing thing to me is. I’ve shot rages for over 10 years probably killed 25+ deer with them.....I’ve Gone through several packages,different retail stores, different product lots, different Styles...Multiple replacement blades multiple shock collar replacements and never had a failure? Never had one “explode” on a deer....Never had one “bounce” off a deer which is utterly ridiculous by the way....Never had one act like the magic bullet and open up in mid air and do loop dee doo’s..... how is that possible? I bought the Chinese knock off last year of the hypodermic’s and killed two deer with them (google rage knock off broadheads) You get a dozen for like 20 bucks I put them side-by-side with actual rage broadheads and you can barely tell the difference....

Anyway, to the original post my first thing would be to check and make sure everything is mechanically sound with my equipment...then Go back and get a little paper tuneup...Hit the range make sure you have a repeatable form and anchor point build your confidence back up...Buy whatever Brodhead you want and get back out there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Buckeyes11
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#36 ·
A quick fix to the problem would be to shoot through paper at 10 yards or less with a bare shaft( one that you stripped the fletch off of) even with bad form you will still see how far off things are. Make your adjustments from there. If that shaft isn't coming off the rest square your arrow will hit the target askew and even the best mechanical broad head on the market will produce less then stellar results.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Do you spin with inserts glued in and broadheads in place? I assume you'd have to to detect wobble. If it's off, what do you do? Pull out the inserts and re-sand? I'm assuming you don't glue them until you're sure. Do you sand by eye, or do you have a squaring device?

Last night I tried spinning my arrows between fingernails of index and thumb, and some bounced around a bit. Not sure if it was my technique or the arrow. Anyway, I ordered this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H4T68Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GXFNZM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

which I hope will help. I was tempted to buy an arrow saw so I can experiment with different lengths, but that's kind of expensive, so I'll stick with paying Lancaster $0.25 per arrow to cut them.

It's great to be back to vertical bow again after my dalliance with the crossbow. I realize now that there's a lot I didn't know. Thanks everyone for taking the somewhat ignorant original post seriously (and not dismissing it as a "joke" as a couple of you kindly suggested) and educating me.
 
#38 ·
I shoot the 3 blade muzzy with FMJ’s and never had an issue , I don’t overly tune and haven’t touched my bow all season. If changing makes you confident then by all means , but it the shot well before there’s an issue somewhere.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#40 ·
I shoot the 3 blade muzzy with FMJ’s and never had an issue , I don’t overly tune and haven’t touched my bow all season. If changing makes you confident then by all means , but it the shot well before there’s an issue somewhere.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
21 - 40 of 47 Posts
About this Discussion
46 Replies
28 Participants
Last post:
briarpatch
New Jersey Hunters
posts
3M
members
61K
Since
2005
A forum community dedicated to New Jersey’s hunters and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about optics, hunting, gunsmithing, gear, troubleshooting, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Hunting Discussions Member Classifieds Fishing Field Testing and Evaluation NJ Firearms ID Card & Gun Permits