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When it comes to bolt action whether it be rifle or slug gun the benefits of glass bedding can only help and never hurt. What you are trying to achieve is a stable platform for shot to shot accuracy. Weather, moisture and humidity play a large role in the movement of a riflestock, swelling or contracting can affect the torque of the action screws and change vibration patterns and point of impact. This is especially true when it comes to laminates. Being you tighten the action screws on the verticle composition of a laminate you can actually crush the area causing variable pressures. You may not always shrink groups by bedding but you can acheive consistency and reliability by creating a solid platform. I can take the laminated stock off of my Weatherby, reinstall it by torquing the screws to the same setting and shoot the rifle to the same point of impact everytime. This is important when you spend the day in the pouring rain and need to clean your gun before going out the next morning. There is no time to "make sure your gun is on" while on an out of state hunt
 
I can vouch for glass bedding & free floating your barrel....improves accuracy for sure. My three remington 700s are all bedded & barrels free floating. Without a doubt, the accuracy improved. Matter of fact, I have an old 700 adl in 30-06....no money I would sell for. It is insanely accurate w cheap remington core lokt ammo
 
Not sure, i do all my own bedding jobs. Weather really affects laminates since they're essentially a plywood stock. The action should be bedded and remainder of the interior should be coated with a sealer.
Good laminate stocks were supposed to be more stable and less prone to movement than traditional walnut stocks .
Was main reason they were introduced .
Sure bedding will make them even better . But many feel not necessary .
 
Good laminate stocks were supposed to be more stable and less prone to movement than traditional walnut stocks .
Was main reason they were introduced .
Sure bedding will make them even better . But many feel not necessary .
agree and disagree dan. They are more stable from the standpoint of warping but not from expansion and contraction. Action bolt torque changes vary harmonics, pretty much all reputable stockmakers today strongly suggest pillar bedding laminates
 
I added pillars and glass bedded my Rem 700 in a Holland laminated stock so I agree that it makes sense to do so. However, I'm not sure I agree that it is more necessary to do this on a laminated stock over say a solid walnut stock. Today's laminated stocks aren't simply glued together pieces of wood like plywood. They're very thin strips of wood that run in alternating grain patterns that are impregnated with epoxy and the epoxy is inherently stable. On any recent manufacture laminate, this should seal them and make them more stable than a solid wood stock.
 
Boyds stocks are floated already. If you read up on it the leave room so the barrel is floated. The little bit of extra weight the laminated stocks have will make them more stable on the rest thus easier to sight in. I have a new Rem 700 ADL in .308 (2009 model) I wanted to put a Boyd's Walnut stock on. After doing my research I could get a nice Walnut stock with Checkering and end caps for about $200.00. Then I saw that replacing the plastic trigger guard was $40.00. WTF. I decided to float the Tupperware stock it came with and run with it. I took off the stock and saw that there were two tabs at the front of the forearm that floated the barrel. I removed the trigger and did a nice light 2lb pull on it then off to the range. Factory ammo and the hard trigger had the gun shooting 1 1/2 at 100. Hand loaded 150 grain V Max and some H4895 along with the trigger job and 1/2 inch 5 shot groups at 100 yards. I am very happy with this accuracy. The two tabs on the stock touch the Barrel and the rest is floated all the way to the receiver. Very cool idea and it works well.
 
I added pillars and glass bedded my Rem 700 in a Holland laminated stock so I agree that it makes sense to do so. However, I'm not sure I agree that it is more necessary to do this on a laminated stock over say a solid walnut stock. Today's laminated stocks aren't simply glued together pieces of wood like plywood. They're very thin strips of wood that run in alternating grain patterns that are impregnated with epoxy and the epoxy is inherently stable. On any recent manufacture laminate, this should seal them and make them more stable than a solid wood stock.
agree, they are much more stable however most "off the shelf" stocks aren't percisely inletted to mate the action to and are rarely sealed on the interior. I myself think it's easier to glass bed for perfect fit than to do a real good job inletting by hand...for the untrained gunsmith anyway. One rifle i bedded for a friend comes to mind, the stock was said to be 96% inletted but to check i mixed burnt umber with vaseline, spread it out on the action and set it in the stock tightening to 35lbs. When i temoved the action the vaseline revealed that the action was only touching on the left half of the recoil lug, left side of the receiver and right rear of the reciever. So much for 96% inletted LOL
 
Does anyone know the reccomended torque setting for the 220? I can not find them anywhere only some advice on the Savage forum, which basically has you torque the forward bolt first to 20 then move back to the rear and keep increasing by 5 lbs with a maximum of 40 on the forward. Basically you keep torquing and adjusting as you shoot. Once the groups start to open then reverse it down to the previous poundage. With the slug gun it will take a few boxes of shells to play with this and a lot of time between shots as the barrel gets hot as hell.

I did find this on the Mcmillan site, which is the stock I have coming so I will probaly start with 40 and go from there.

Do I need a gunsmith to bolt my rifle onto my new McMillan stock? You can bolt your rifle onto the McMillan stock yourself. We recommend a 40-45 inch lb torque setting for your action screws.
 
Does anyone know the reccomended torque setting for the 220? I can not find them anywhere only some advice on the Savage forum, which basically has you torque the forward bolt first to 20 then move back to the rear and keep increasing by 5 lbs with a maximum of 40 on the forward. Basically you keep torquing and adjusting as you shoot. Once the groups start to open then reverse it down to the previous poundage. With the slug gun it will take a few boxes of shells to play with this and a lot of time between shots as the barrel gets hot as hell.

I did find this on the Mcmillan site, which is the stock I have coming so I will probaly start with 40 and go from there.

Do I need a gunsmith to bolt my rifle onto my new McMillan stock? You can bolt your rifle onto the McMillan stock yourself. We recommend a 40-45 inch lb torque setting for your action screws.
Best bet is to give Mcmillan a call and savage, they may have different views. For example with a Weatherby you tighten the rear action bolt first then the front, if its wood/laminate you tighten to 35lbs but if it's synthetic with an aluminum bedding block you tighten to 55lbs. A quick call may save you some ammo
 
Does anyone know the reccomended torque setting for the 220? I can not find them anywhere only some advice on the Savage forum, which basically has you torque the forward bolt first to 20 then move back to the rear and keep increasing by 5 lbs with a maximum of 40 on the forward. Basically you keep torquing and adjusting as you shoot. Once the groups start to open then reverse it down to the previous poundage. With the slug gun it will take a few boxes of shells to play with this and a lot of time between shots as the barrel gets hot as hell.

I did find this on the Mcmillan site, which is the stock I have coming so I will probaly start with 40 and go from there.

Do I need a gunsmith to bolt my rifle onto my new McMillan stock? You can bolt your rifle onto the McMillan stock yourself. We recommend a 40-45 inch lb torque setting for your action screws.
Don't crush your stock!
Be ready for your groups to shrink by half.
 
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