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hammer4reel

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just wondering how much Detail everyone puts into their archery set ups.
Do you check your tiller and cam sync ?
Do you paper tune, walk back tune?
Do you weigh your arrows, broadheads, fletching etc ?
Check the straightness of your arrows and broadhead fit ?
Can you see how the minute changes effect your accuracy ?

Im old school and after competing for many years it seems many guys think their bow is fine to hunt with when they are not, losing alot of performance.


All the bows I set up are done so to peak their performance for the person shooting them.
Bows are tillered and synced
Paper tuned, then walk back tuned to as far as that shooter can get good results my own to 80 yards.
Arrows are spined and each set of components weighed.
While I used to like sharpening broadheads on my own, i found once they have been sharpened a few times they easily come out of balance and not spin as true, as well as having a weight difference effecting long range accuracy. .
 
I have been looking for someone to help me tune my newer bow for the broad heads I prefer to shoot (muzzy mx-3's), but haven't gotten a lot of help. Sad to say I usually shoot mechanicals instead because they fly perfectly. Ive killed a bunch of deer with the NAP Killzones, but would really prefer to move back to the mx-3's full time.
 
I go the fully monty. Check everything from draw length to let off. Cam sync and timed correctly. Brace height and ata.
For arrows, if they don't come spine tested, i test my own in the bathtub with some dish detergent. Been making my arrows for many many years.
I dont put much into paper tuning since it doesn't tell everything but i do it as a start. I bare shaft to 30 yrds. Some bows just wont do it.
Then walk back with field points to b/h's. That usually goes 1-2-3 cause of the bare shaft but i do it anyways.
I walk back with fixed b/h's , I don't use mech's.
Now, you know, this doesn't happen over night and thats why i shoot all year round.
If the bow is tuned, its all up to you and you cant say " that was the bow " and you have the confidence when you hit the woods

It also helps to have all the correct equipment. Bow press, timing machine,draw board ,lasers , paper tuning stand , large shooting area ( indoor and out) and on and on
 
I've been battling target panic for a while now, so sadly I fall into the category of if it shoots its fine. Normally I am a stickler for tuning to where it is dead nuts from top to bottom to my form. I use the hell out of my press and draw board all summer long.

A well tuned bow will be quieter, carry more kinetic energy down range resulting in better penetration, shoot more consistent, and faster. Not to mention more fun to shoot.
 
Not bashing brands directly but when you get into fine tuning bows you see what the better brands are with their designs and quality. You will come across some that just will not tune, where everyday hunters will be satisfied with it not knowing any better. Axle straightness, cam tolerance, cables. Split limbs when they came out were horrible with consistency in a set of limbs side by side along with top and bottom. I've owned and tuned a LOT of bows.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
the guy that does mine is ok but is getting older so i have to check up on him from time to time ever since he started wearing crocs,but all in all he's still got it.My bow has never shot better and am looking forward to setting up the spyder
The old guy can still put an arrow right where he wants it though, cant he lol
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
A
I've been battling target panic for a while now, so sadly I fall into the category of if it shoots its fine. Normally I am a stickler for tuning to where it is dead nuts from top to bottom to my form. I use the hell out of my press and draw board all summer long.

A well tuned bow will be quieter, carry more kinetic energy down range resulting in better penetration, shoot more consistent, and faster. Not to mention more fun to shoot.

I have helped a few guys cure target panic , the method will seem simple but its effective.

Take a bow handle or grip and attach a string to it perfect for your draw length.
Use it to work on a crisp smooth release using back tension. O a good shot the string will shoot forward like its real, on a bad shot it will just pop.
Do it for a month retrainjng your release muscle.

When you them start to target shoot again, work on keeping the release slow and clean,
It seems to change the thought process from thinking about trying to aim at the target to muscle memory of the release.
If done correctly you canteven convince your finger to pre trigger a shot without aiming through the process
 
Mine could be better but I'm confident with it..
That about sums me up as well, I think their is a point where over "analyzing" leads to over-thinking and then to over complicating....
 
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Tom at Strictly Archery does my tuning for me. Then when I pick it up he has me shoot through paper and evaluates any flaws in my form. Then when all good he shoots through the chrono. Then I will shoot through paper in the backyard about once a month to see if anything has stretched or changed, I shoot about 200 arrows a month. Arrows are all squared and spun for true before fletching. Then spun after fletching, and they are all spun with the broadheads I shoot for deer season. After build all arrows are weighed. Presently I am shooting Quest Thumper arrows, they come in within .5 grain of one another.

I even periodically check the 1st, 2nd and 3rd axis of my sights.

My next purchase is gonna be a bow press for the basement.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Precise enough to hit the bullseye!
Believe it or not but if you have good form and can hit the bullseye every time it doesnt mean your bow is ready to hunt with.

If your arrow flight isnt perfect you lose considerable penetration caused by arrow slap, as the nock end flips arrow from the direct path of the broadhead.
You want the nock to be following the broadhead as soon as possible.
Especially on close shots .where the arrow hasnt had enough time to spin and correct itself.


.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
That about sums me up as well, I think their is a point where over "analyzing" leads to over-thinking and then to over complicating....

Its not about over anylizing, its about breaking it down to simple forms and understanding its not rocket science.

Your a details guy or you wouldnt be as successful waterfowl hunting

I have watched guys shooting a bow that should never see the woods, scared to death to make changes 3 weeks from the season.

Once they understand its really not so hard to super tune a brand new set up in an hour or two
 
I paper tune my bow at the start of the season, when that's good and I can hit the bullseye with good groups I'm done. I guess you can go crazy with weighing your arrows and broadheads and all that jazz. To me, most modern compound bows shoot well enough to take deer at moderate distances. Now, if you're doing long distance or competitive shooting that's another story. IMO ...or you can buy a crossbow[hihi]
 
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