Got a great deal on this Mathews Ultra Max SoloCam. Wanted to limit my investment for the first year, get my Archery cert. taken care of, then get a nicer bow next year. Got some arrows cut at Sportsmans on 130 in Bordentown. Do I need a stabilizer? What about silencers for the strings? Also any recommendations on broad heads (fixed or mechanical, 3 blade or 2?) would be greatly appreciated.
Old School Mathews suggestions?
Berserker
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Got a great deal on this Mathews Ultra Max SoloCam. Wanted to limit my investment for the first year, get my Archery cert. taken care of, then get a nicer bow next year. Got some arrows cut at Sportsmans on 130 in Bordentown. Do I need a stabilizer? What about silencers for the strings? Also any recommendations on broad heads (fixed or mechanical, 3 blade or 2?) would be greatly appreciated.
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String silencers of some sort would probably help. The older bows weren't as quiet as the new stuff so it will probably help quiet it down some. Stabilizers are a personal preference. It will absorb some vibration and possibly reduce hand shock a bit. I typically don't use stabilizers on hunting bows, I shoot the same with or without a stab so I figure why add more weight to the bow if I don't gain anything with it. Some folks see a difference in their shooting so its worth it to them. Looking at the pictures I see your string and cable are routed through your slide backwards. Make sure the cable and string are not touching each other in that configuration or you will see rapid wear on them. Typically you want the cable in the rear most slot of your cable slide and you want the string and cable to cross under the guide rod not above it.
I prefer fixed blade broadheads, I use muzzy 3 blade and MX3's most of the time. I like the MX3's but they are more expensive than the standard 3 blade and they all put deer on the ground if you do your part and put the broadhead where it needs to go. What ever heads you decide to go with make sure you are familiar with how to sharpen them or buy extra blades. You want the heads to be razor sharp when you hunt. I practice with broadheads then sharpen them or replace blades before hunting. I shot G5 montecs for a year and they were strong and flew great but I couldn't get them as sharp as I would have liked and the blood trails I got with them weren't that great so I went back to Muzzy.
Whats your draw length and draw weight on that bow? What are the arrows you got from sportsman's center?
Whats your draw length and draw weight on that bow? What are the arrows you got from sportsman's center?
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I have an old Mathews Fx bow and added string stop and shoot Slick Trick broadheads at 45yds in great grouping
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nice bow!!!
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Congrats good luck with it[up]
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Good luck with the bow.. You sound like you are in good shape. You really need to pick an arrow and broadhead and shoot. The biggest thing is being accurate with your hunting set up. I am a fan of the Muzzy3 blade. There are tons of different ones out there. A Muzzy never failed on me so why change is my theory.
Yes you can shoot broadheads with them. The 340 is the spine value, its the measurement in thousandths of an inch that particular model shaft will flex when a specific weight is suspended in the center of 29" of shaft. The lower the number the stiffer the arrow is. The 60/75 is the ballpark of draw weights that arrow is suitable for. Arrow length has a lot to do with the stiffness (or actual spine) so that is a ballpark but depending on arrow length and bow type it may not always be accurate.
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The grip is glued on. heat it for a while with a blow dryer and it should slip offslip. Silicone should work for gluing it back on .
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Those old Mathews grips are a love/hate situation. You may try shooting it with just tape around the metal first and see how you like it before putting the grip back on.
Mathews uses 3m trim adhesive to put the grips on. A little heat as mike stated will usually soften it enough to pull the grip off. I bought a tube of the 3m adhesive and I've used it on a handful of grips, stuff works pretty good. Just try and pull the grip straight back, if you use a screwdriver to aid in getting it off make sure you don't pry up on the sides of the grip they will break pretty easily.
I would get correct cam/string for your draw length placed on that bow or place on an extremely long D loop for this year at a minimum. Incorrect draw length is the worst part of shooting mechanics. If you start off with an incorrect draw length 2" is huge you will only develop bad habits that could carry through to your next bow that will fit (hopefully), plus you will shoot like hell.
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