When 777 first came out there was a ratio of something like 90 grains of 777=100 grains of BP or Pyrodex. I don't recall exactly. Does anyone know what that ratio is? Or does it even matter?
777 Ratio to Black Powder or Pyrodex
230grain hollowpoint
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When 777 first came out there was a ratio of something like 90 grains of 777=100 grains of BP or Pyrodex. I don't recall exactly. Does anyone know what that ratio is? Or does it even matter?
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I think that you are right but, I'm not sure. I used to use Triple 7 but, I switched to White Hots.
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I thought it was manufactured to be the same as the black powder charge. I use the pellet form now, so have not paid much attention to the granular charges.
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I have never crushed pyrodex pellets. Have removed them many times.
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Both come in loose or pellet form. Ive never used pellets, but they do come in 30, 50, and 60 grn pellets, so some fine tuning is possible. The Ultimate custom rifle guys are doing some pretty amazing things with pellets. 3" groups at 3-400 yards. the gun was totally designed around seven pellets. I never liked them, but they have been proven to me in the right platform. Granted, thats just a very few custom builds. even most owners there consider it an oxymoron. Its really designed for states where smokeless muzzy isn't legal. but in most cases, loose powder is better all around
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Yes it matters. Reduce charge by 15 to 18%.
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No this is for the TC Black Mountain Magnum I just bought. Supposedly I can use pellets in it as well, but since it is a side lock I want to use loose powder.
In my Triumph and my Black Diamond I use two pellets and Hornady240 grain hollow point .45 caliber pistol bullets with Harvester crush rib sabots. I get clover leafs at 100 yds with the BD, but the Triumph doesn't group quite as tight. I believe that is because the BD has the Flame Thrower nipple. It is ironic my $200 muzzle loader gets better shot groups than my $600 muzzleloader
I will be using the crush rib sabots with pistol bullets in the BMM only with loose powder and musket caps.
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Thanx
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Thanx
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This gun I am talking about can use musket caps that are hotter than #11s. I will let you know how it shoots
I have never used triple seven. I am wondering if anybody out there who does use this powder can tell me something. I have a Sharps, Civil War era, that I shoot with 2fg or pyrodex but both leave enough of fouling that the action soon seizes up until I remove the breech block and clean it out. Does triple seven burn cleaner and would let me get off more shots before I have to clean the block? Thanks
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I used to shoot Triple 7 a lot and I found that you need to use magnum primers for consistent shots. That's for all of my muzzy's.
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You do not need magnum primers for seven. Muzzleloader specific primers were developed specifically to address the 'crud ring' that develops at the powder/bullet seat point, which is worst with seven powder. They are less hot than regular or magnum primers. with the exception of BH209, virtually all ignition problems are from a fouled flame channel in the breech plug or nipple. all the breech plug or nipple fouling comes directly from the primer. 209 primers are very dirty, and not designed for muzzleloader. the hotter the primer, the worse the crud ring and faster it develops with seven. its easily cleaned with even a water base cleaner. but must be addressed usually within 3-5 shots or the ring hinders proper seating of bullet/sabot on the powder, creating dangerous situations for pressure in the barrel
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