I have a very difficult time deciding when to draw on a deer. It seems that everytime I wait for a broadside opportunity the deer always turns to look at me as I am into my draw. This has caused me to miss, have bad hits etc. What has been your practice, experience ?
When do you draw on a deer ?
landwolf
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I have a very difficult time deciding when to draw on a deer. It seems that everytime I wait for a broadside opportunity the deer always turns to look at me as I am into my draw. This has caused me to miss, have bad hits etc. What has been your practice, experience ?
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[confused] first I would think you may need to try and get higher in the tree.
also try pointing your bow at the deer with your arm extended before she is ware you want her as if you are aiming, let it get comfortable with it's surroundings, then when you are ready to make the shot all you need do is draw straight back, anchor and you only have moved your arm straight back in a very low profile move
[up]Good Luck
also try pointing your bow at the deer with your arm extended before she is ware you want her as if you are aiming, let it get comfortable with it's surroundings, then when you are ready to make the shot all you need do is draw straight back, anchor and you only have moved your arm straight back in a very low profile move
[up]Good Luck
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I usually draw on the deer when they put their head down and are in my bait pile.
Don't rush it, you'll get an opportunity.
Sometimes they will put their head down and pick it right back up a millisecond later just to fool you. This can cause a bad hit as the deer sees you the second you release the arrow.
How high are you off the ground?
Don't rush it, you'll get an opportunity.
Sometimes they will put their head down and pick it right back up a millisecond later just to fool you. This can cause a bad hit as the deer sees you the second you release the arrow.
How high are you off the ground?
If you are baiting, try to set your bait up so that when they put their head down to eat, it is behind a tree or some built up brush which will give you a little more cover when you are drawing. Give them time to be comfortable on the bait and as mftom said, don't rush it.
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I put corn behind the trees in a 20 yard radius around my treestand. this makes the deer put it's head behind tree making it easy to draw on them. If you can see your stand while walking normal through the woods without looking up ten to 1 it's hung too low.
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Ladder stands are usually advertised to the shooting rail. so your stand is proabably about 14 ft.
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Not to be rude, but if you don't bait and dont want to, the suggestions that come from baiters won't mean diddly in real situations.
Every situation is different. Try to draw when they are on the move, looking away, or head behind something. Wait till something distracts them, etc. A lot of times they distract each other. Especially bucks. Once a shooter buck comes into view anywhere, other deer typically put all their attention on him and scatter or cause enough commotion to allow an opportunity to draw.
There is no set way to do it though, that's what sets real bowhunting apart from everything else.
You even have to be aware of other animals like squirells and chipmunks that could give you away with barking or chirping.
It can be and usually is EXTREMELY difficult to get drawn back. Single deer are the easiest, but where there is one deer, usually more are nearby.
DropTine had some good advice about the motion. Getting the bow into position VERY SLOWLY or sometimes very quickly are important. Than make the draw with as minimal movement as possible. That is why it's critical to shoot a bow that you can draw very easily.
Remember too, usually extremely slow movement wont be detected as easily as quicker movement, BUT...sometimes you have to just make it real fast. Like turned head or behind a tree, bang, draw the bow fast.
That is where letoff helps so much.
When hunting with trad gear, it gives you even less opportunity because you have to pick the time when you can draw and shoot. There is no letoff! So unless you're a really good snap shot, it is even harder. Which in my book, equates to more fun!
As far as being too low, a lot of people can get it done on the ground without a blind, so 14' or 17' or 30' helps, but if you have NO cover and draw at the wrong time, height usually won't help.
Choosing good cover, a concealed location off to their side where they really shouldn't be paying attention to you and a knack for picking the perfect time to draw are all parts of becoming a real bowhunter!
Sometimes you never get a chance to draw. That's what makes bowhunting so much fun!
Good luck!
Every situation is different. Try to draw when they are on the move, looking away, or head behind something. Wait till something distracts them, etc. A lot of times they distract each other. Especially bucks. Once a shooter buck comes into view anywhere, other deer typically put all their attention on him and scatter or cause enough commotion to allow an opportunity to draw.
There is no set way to do it though, that's what sets real bowhunting apart from everything else.
You even have to be aware of other animals like squirells and chipmunks that could give you away with barking or chirping.
It can be and usually is EXTREMELY difficult to get drawn back. Single deer are the easiest, but where there is one deer, usually more are nearby.
DropTine had some good advice about the motion. Getting the bow into position VERY SLOWLY or sometimes very quickly are important. Than make the draw with as minimal movement as possible. That is why it's critical to shoot a bow that you can draw very easily.
Remember too, usually extremely slow movement wont be detected as easily as quicker movement, BUT...sometimes you have to just make it real fast. Like turned head or behind a tree, bang, draw the bow fast.
That is where letoff helps so much.
When hunting with trad gear, it gives you even less opportunity because you have to pick the time when you can draw and shoot. There is no letoff! So unless you're a really good snap shot, it is even harder. Which in my book, equates to more fun!
As far as being too low, a lot of people can get it done on the ground without a blind, so 14' or 17' or 30' helps, but if you have NO cover and draw at the wrong time, height usually won't help.
Choosing good cover, a concealed location off to their side where they really shouldn't be paying attention to you and a knack for picking the perfect time to draw are all parts of becoming a real bowhunter!
Sometimes you never get a chance to draw. That's what makes bowhunting so much fun!
Good luck!
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Draw your bow when the deer's eyes are obstructed or turned directly away. They have very good peripheral vision and can almost see 360 degrees. If they are moving around brush that is good also. If you have to make alot of arm motions when drawing then you are probably trying to pull more weight than you can handle. If you can draw your bow while holding it straight out then you eliminate alot of motion.
landwolf, I don't bait all of my spots, 3 out of 5 I do. But as Matty said, if you are not a baiter, there are many other things that you can do to help yourself out. If the area around your stand is so open, you can also try dragging some deadwood and fallen brush and arranging it so that you will have areas of opportunity. It may take the deer a few days or so to get used to the way you have re-arranged their living room, but it may also give you the opportunity spot that you need to be able to draw undetected.
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I don't mean to change the subject but along the same lines,what is even harder than knowing when to draw is the ability to let down and not release just because you have come to fall draw. I call this abitily "over coming shot commitment" We have all had those situations where we have finally come to full draw only to have the deer turn and give us a bad shot angle. Anyone with enough experience knows what I am talking about. The abiltiy to know when not to shoot and just let down is just as difficult if, not even more so than knowing when to draw. Everyone has given you good suggestions but it will be experience that will be the best teacher as your bow hunting career advances. Good Luck!
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wow someone sure had alot to say
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At the base of my tree - Advantage - Crossbow
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Well, it sounded like he didn't want to use bait and just wait for a pre-planned and positioned shot. So I tried to give some advice on real world situations.
Theres a lot more that goes into it than what I wrote too!
Like trying to pick turns in the trail you're hunting, so they focus ahead and to the side, not where you're ambushing from. Picking areas where they will stop and hang up to scan, before entering changes in cover. Using the terrain to your advantage. Waiting on other animals or the wind to make enough noise to draw, etc.
To me that's what makes bowhunting so much fun. I get passionate about it because to me, that is what bowhunting is!
[up][up][up]
Could be your set up. If you have no back cover or if you're right on the run, they'll pick you up quick. Know your shooting lanes and draw before they step in. Make sure you can hold your draw.....you shouldn't have to strain to draw your bow. You should be able to draw your bow in a seated position. PRACTICE HOLDING YOUR DRAW!!!!!! when you practice, draw the bow and try to hold it for 10,20,30 seconds before you shoot. The more you practice the easier you'll find it.
I like to draw on the dinkers as many times as I can, gives you the confidence you need to draw on the big guy's and if they do bust you they won't blow as easily as a mature doe.
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BOW HUNTING whitetails is a challenge that many will never take on. To be any good at it you have to put your time in and see first hand just what the challenges are. It is very rare for things to happen the same every time in real hunting situations. Getting the draw on whitetails is one of the hardest things to accomplish. It can and will be frustrating until you develop the patience required to know just when to draw. Don't be in too much of a hurry to pull the string.
drawing and holding not a problem. I work out every day , shot every day and can hold my 65lbs. for minutes and can let down without a problem. I just have to improve my technique and maybe re-arrange my set up moving some dead wood into my area to obscure the deers vision of me.. Thanks again
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Just be careful for the following reasons.
A- Any changes like that can scare the crap out of deer. Especially big bucks. Imagine if you came home and there was new furniture strewn about your house. Weird right?
B-Sometimes it will only result in changing the way they move through the area. What you think may block their view, may actually cause them to divert to another trail.
That method typically works much better with bait.
It's easier to adjust your location than it is to re-arrange the woods!
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