After reading another thread on here regarding how long your scent stays in the woods after you leave i figured i would share some info that i have compiled over the years. When i was 17 (29 now) i became interested in Mock Scrapes after seeing the success a buddy of mine had with them the previous season. If you remember Tom Mirandas mock scrape scent line that used to be out, you could buy a bottle of "Scrape Dirt" which was water proof and you could make little mounds in the center of the scrape and it would hold liquid scent in a little pool which was awesome. The first few scrapes i made i wasnt scent free at all, no gloves, no rubber boots, no scent spray, nothing. I would take very good notes about each location, how i made the scrape and then would hang a camera ( in the very beginning it was a "trail timer" which was a little device with a string that would attach to a clock and you would hang it over a trail, when an animal knocked the string off it would stop the clock haha, very high tech). I would try all different scents, tactics, off the wall ideas etc and just keep the journal going. After a few seasons the results i came up with have allowed me to consistently use mock scrapes as a tool for success. Being that a scrape has so many different scents from a deer its is of the utmost importance that he DOESNT SMELL YOU AT ALL. I started with regular latex gloves and knee high rubber boots, this resulted in smaller immature bucks on cam and yearling does almost 90% of the time. If you want to consistently get mature deer on camera in daylight hours ( and hopefully harvest him) Number one is LOCATION, 96% of my scrapes located under 20 yards from thick thick thick cover would be visited regularly in daylight compared to 12% of scrapes located on field edges or more open woods where the buck had the ability to safely scent check the scrape from down wind staying in thicker cover. My scrapes on the edges of thick cover we placed there due to a suitable stand location often only 8 to 10 yards into the thick cover usually resulting in the buck approaching from down wind and hanging just inside the thick cover which is exactly where i place my stands, if he chose to walk to the actual scrape to work it he would still be in shooting range, these are the most deadly set ups. As for the actual scent used, 81% of the scrapes i made with "the whole package" as i call it would be hit harder and more consistently and during daylight hours. This consists of doe estrous, tarsal gland scent, pre orbital gland scent and forehead gland scent, my favorite company to use is Buck Fever Synthetics followed by real deer parts ie: fresh tarsal gland or doe urine extracted from a does bladder. Lastly when actually building the scrape, season after season, this scent control system has hands down provided the best results. Scent free shower with scent killer type product, Trappers gloves or some type of rubber gloves that go all the way up to your shoulders, a good scent killer spray, and here is the best thing that made the biggest difference in success, RUBBER CHEST WADERS. With this system you are leaving virtually NO HUMAN SCENT BEHIND. Another little trick is the stick you use to clean the scrape out with, TAKE IT WITH YOU, this ensures you leaving nothing behind except what you want to be left. The camera should be hidden very well and not at eye level of the deer 5 feet from the scrape, also i hate scrape dripperss, i find less activity at scrapes with drippers compared to without. Make sure your licking branch is perfect as well, if its not i have had luck with making them by zip tieing a branch at perfect height and length. When you take the extra time to make scrapes correctly you will see the results and hopefully kill a big boy. These are just my findings from over the years. I hope this information helps any new hunter or veterans that never really played around with mock scrapes. Either way, good luck to all this season. Lets go Saturday!!!!!