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After reading another thread on here regarding how long your scent stays in the woods after you leave i figured i would share some info that i have compiled over the years. When i was 17 (29 now) i became interested in Mock Scrapes after seeing the success a buddy of mine had with them the previous season. If you remember Tom Mirandas mock scrape scent line that used to be out, you could buy a bottle of "Scrape Dirt" which was water proof and you could make little mounds in the center of the scrape and it would hold liquid scent in a little pool which was awesome. The first few scrapes i made i wasnt scent free at all, no gloves, no rubber boots, no scent spray, nothing. I would take very good notes about each location, how i made the scrape and then would hang a camera ( in the very beginning it was a "trail timer" which was a little device with a string that would attach to a clock and you would hang it over a trail, when an animal knocked the string off it would stop the clock haha, very high tech). I would try all different scents, tactics, off the wall ideas etc and just keep the journal going. After a few seasons the results i came up with have allowed me to consistently use mock scrapes as a tool for success. Being that a scrape has so many different scents from a deer its is of the utmost importance that he DOESNT SMELL YOU AT ALL. I started with regular latex gloves and knee high rubber boots, this resulted in smaller immature bucks on cam and yearling does almost 90% of the time. If you want to consistently get mature deer on camera in daylight hours ( and hopefully harvest him) Number one is LOCATION, 96% of my scrapes located under 20 yards from thick thick thick cover would be visited regularly in daylight compared to 12% of scrapes located on field edges or more open woods where the buck had the ability to safely scent check the scrape from down wind staying in thicker cover. My scrapes on the edges of thick cover we placed there due to a suitable stand location often only 8 to 10 yards into the thick cover usually resulting in the buck approaching from down wind and hanging just inside the thick cover which is exactly where i place my stands, if he chose to walk to the actual scrape to work it he would still be in shooting range, these are the most deadly set ups. As for the actual scent used, 81% of the scrapes i made with "the whole package" as i call it would be hit harder and more consistently and during daylight hours. This consists of doe estrous, tarsal gland scent, pre orbital gland scent and forehead gland scent, my favorite company to use is Buck Fever Synthetics followed by real deer parts ie: fresh tarsal gland or doe urine extracted from a does bladder. Lastly when actually building the scrape, season after season, this scent control system has hands down provided the best results. Scent free shower with scent killer type product, Trappers gloves or some type of rubber gloves that go all the way up to your shoulders, a good scent killer spray, and here is the best thing that made the biggest difference in success, RUBBER CHEST WADERS. With this system you are leaving virtually NO HUMAN SCENT BEHIND. Another little trick is the stick you use to clean the scrape out with, TAKE IT WITH YOU, this ensures you leaving nothing behind except what you want to be left. The camera should be hidden very well and not at eye level of the deer 5 feet from the scrape, also i hate scrape dripperss, i find less activity at scrapes with drippers compared to without. Make sure your licking branch is perfect as well, if its not i have had luck with making them by zip tieing a branch at perfect height and length. When you take the extra time to make scrapes correctly you will see the results and hopefully kill a big boy. These are just my findings from over the years. I hope this information helps any new hunter or veterans that never really played around with mock scrapes. Either way, good luck to all this season. Lets go Saturday!!!!!
 

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thanks for sharing!! Lots of work involved.

I just ordered some grow the bone, how would you work that into the equation or is it better to just use one or the other?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To do it correctly it is a decent amount of work but we'll worth it Imo. And you don't want anything near your scrapes. No feeders no mineral nothing. Keep the scrape locations as natural as possible.
 

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My findings are that if I find a scrape or make a mock one and piss in it....I get lots of activity....[smoke]

as well as some interesting comments....:ko:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have had luck that way as well and also a small trowel full of dirt from a real scrape from another property will usually light the mock one on fire. Just have always liked this tactic and when you review your notes year after year patterns begin to emerge. Just sharing some info.
 

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I had tons of pics(mostly cellphone) over the years from from bucks using my scrapes while I was hunting.
Close to cover
rake it a couple inches so the soil is fresh
piss in it to get it started
licking branch and tarsal are a plus
then all doe in heat scent.

Last year had a morning where 6 different young bucks visited the same scrape with 2 hrs at separate times.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good stuff pala. My goal is to have mature bucks 3.5 years and up hitting them in daylight. For that caliber of deer you really have to take your time and be super cautious with human scent. I have thousands and thousands of trail cam pics of 2.5 year olds during daylight. The game is the big boys. They don't let you get away with anything haha
 

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I just go out scrape the dirt with my foot, put some mock scrape stuff in the dirt, a little on the licking branch and on my way. do it in the morning. get doe and little bucks coming to it, the more the little ones and doe come, the more deer smell there. The big boys will come when he is ready. if he thinks the little boys are getting the doe he will come faster. you all know what my favorite scents are.
 
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