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A buddy of mine was recently given an old recurve. He is a carpenter and wants to refinish the bow.

He sanded the bow down a bit and is going to refinish the woods.

He asked me to post on here whether any of you guys know what he should put on the limbs (which are coated in fiberglass). He lightlt sanded the fiberglass and the glass is cloudy.

Is there anyway to refinish the fiberglass coated limbs on a recurve?
 

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Tell him to get in touch with Rich Lopez at droptine traditions in MD. He's from NJ originaly..Tell him to tell Rich that Mark Kronyak told him to call.. he does bow finishing on the side snd does great work..He'll tell him what to do.

443 280 1825
 

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any kind of urethane will work. I really like wipe on poly. tell him don't forget to use clean rags & some thinner to get the dust & oil off the bow before refinishing
 

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catalyzed varnish, polyurethane, epoxy finishes, rub-on oil finishes, wax finishes or camo sprays. Lacquer-type finishes are not recommended because they do not stretch and will crack when the limbs flex.
 

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catalyzed varnish, polyurethane, epoxy finishes, rub-on oil finishes, wax finishes or camo sprays. Lacquer-type finishes are not recommended because they do not stretch and will crack when the limbs flex.
Have not found that to be true at all. I have heard this from bowyers from selfbows to compony bows.
 

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I'm just saying what worked for me & what didn't over the years of building recurves. Plus the type of outer material has effect on finish used. If you have flex glass for the exposed layer oils can't work. You'll HAVE TO use epoxy. If you exposed layer is rosewood or cocobola oil will NEVER dry. Lacquer-type finishes are easily chipped & scratched that's why they are avoided.
 

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I'm just saying what worked for me & what didn't over the years of building recurves. Plus the type of outer material has effect on finish used. If you have flex glass for the exposed layer oils can't work. You'll HAVE TO use epoxy. If you exposed layer is rosewood or cocobola oil will NEVER dry. Lacquer-type finishes are easily chipped & scratched that's why they are avoided.
I heard this too...my bowyer suggested that I use Tru-Oil for the very reason that it is elastic [smoke][up] He told me to lightly sand my bow and then, as Cat suggested with a tack cloth get rid of all the dust, and then put on a few coats of Tru-Oil...all for maintainance...my bow is a long bow with fiberglass yew laminants and just a light sanding is all it takes and that Tru-Oil gives a very nice shine to the wood [up]
 

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Hmmmm, fiberglass. With my expierience with fiberglass and working on many Corvetts in my tenure. I found if you do not seal the fiberglass with a gelcoat the fibers will eventually work there way through the topcoat and have little or no protection. This is why you MUST gelcoat any fiberglass piece before painting it. You may also tint the gel coat and that will be the top coat. Those nicely painted Donzie's on the water = gelcoat...
 

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Smack what are you talking about? No one paints over raw fiberglass with out sealer,primer or some other catalist barrier coating so why would you think the glass would ravel. When I repaired covettes in the 70s and 80s when I had a Corvette shop and a frame shop having the 3rd cheif rack in Phila. I specialised in corvette work and Frame work. I did not want to see 1 wave in the body from the regulair fiberglass imperfections from the factory moldes. I used a product called Workhorse then block sanded down by hand after a top gude coat was sprayed on to take out the small waves and body imperfections.

Not to dance on the mans post just to get your post redirected Smack.

I would think that if you were going to use epoxy on bow linbs it might change the weight of the bow a little. This is not hard to do as far as refinishing a bow or could be somewhat likened to furniture refinishing.

Try not to make it any harder than you have to. Go with the True oil methoud.

I can just visualize to much shine on the bows being refinished rather than a duller finish the true oil will give you.[cool]
 

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Poor Cat. I too have painted and the first rule for painting fiberglass or and other substrate is to seal it. The only way to seal fiberglass is to use gel coat. Yes you can paint over glass and it will look great for about 5-10 years depending on where the vehicle is stored. Eventually the fibers will show them selves through the top coat. Look it up.

With that being said. I was adding some information to try and help the man refinish his bow for the last time and to offer my knowledge for free. I do this stuff for a living and it is my job to know what I'm talking about so not to damage my credibility or the organization I'm employed by.

Furthermore, Friday I will complete the last 2 auto body tests for my ASE master certification and add it to my light and heavy duty master certifications. I can back up my BS Cat, can you?

Lastly, I have forgotten more about Corvettes than you will ever know! I have a pristine 1983 Vette for sale. Let me know if you interested... :D
 

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Cat, I did a bow ( it was the first one and it broke when I tested it ) had a tru-oil finish and I had to sand it down some to dull it. If I didn't it was very glossie/shinie.


Smack, Your right about that kind of glass, but when doing a bow You don't need or shouldn't use gelcoat. You need the glass to flex.
 

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I have forgotten more about Corvettes than you will ever know! I have a pristine 1983 Vette for sale. Let me know if you interested...

Plain and simple your out of your mind. 3 body shops and 3 appraisals companys in 35 years.

What buisness do you have so how much experiance you really have or your fellow workers have in comparing?[hihi][hihi][hihi][hihi]

Now with all that said if you had no pimer even over the gel coat you'd never be employed by me.[smirk]

No one is trying to discredit you, you just have it wrong. I was a frame man and corvette crach and custom shop in Phila. Many outside shops sent me there work because they couldn't do it and I did. I had an 18 car shop my own and I grew up in the body buisness. Any time you want to talk real buisness just let me know. I'd be glad to one day.[rofl][rofl][rofl][rofl][rofl]
 

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ChrisM,
To my knowledge most laminated bowyers employ "Fullerplast" Catalised varnish.
If your pal is a cabinet maker he will know what this is and how to use it.
 
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