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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't shot a recurve in 20 years.

Looking to get a trad bow. For target and eventually hunting.

Had an old Bear takedown when I was a kid.

I currently pull about 65# on my compound. My draw length is 27".

1) Which make, model?
2) poundage?
3)Long vs Recurve - why?
4) bow length?
5) materials?

5) are these the right questions?

6) Did I miss anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
[confused]
 

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What a great idea! I've been considering the same.

i don't know much about them but one thing i do remember is that draw length does not matter. you are at peak draw wieght when you come to full draw reguardless of length. peak draw wiehgt is supposed to be immediate. you don't have to be at full draw to achieve it.

if you are going traditional, you might want cedar arrows. i don't really know if you can use aluminum. i'd bet that carbon is out of the question. i ran into a guy at county line sport shop 2 weeks ago that shoots traditional. he sort of sparked an interest for me to do the same.

i think mathews makes a traditional bow. then all the companies should. find a pro shop close to you and shop around.
 

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Actually draw weight does matter to an extent. A traditional bow stacks as it goes back. Building up to the peak weight.

Most bows are measured at 28" draw. So if it says 55#....it more than likely means 55# at 28" draw.

With a 27" draw, you will be a little under 55# on said bow.

The right poundage is hard to say. It will be lighter than your comound thats for sure. Remember you are holding the bow at the peak, so you want it to be light enough to hold comfortably. Otherwise bad habits like snapshooting (target panic) will result. My guess would be about a 50-55# recurve would be good for you.

I would go with a recurve because they are easier to master. Longbows take considerable amounts of practice to become really proficient with, moreso even than a recurve (which takes a good deal of practice as well).

For your draw length, you will want a recurve bow in the tip to tip length of about 58-60". It will provide you with enough length to not pinch your fingers at full draw, while giving you a little more speed. Speed that would be unnecessarily robbed from you by a longer recurve.

Make, Model, Materials? I dont know enough to make those recomendations. Whatever you choose though, try to shoot it before you buy it. What feels good in one mans hands, may not feel good in yours.


Hope that helps.
:)
 

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pla930,
I would check ebay for a Ben Pearson in the 50# @ 28" range. They're fine shooting bows and can be had for less than $100.00 bucks. Aluminums or carbons can be used {with feathers}.
This way if you find it's not for you, not much money has been lost.
I'd loan you one, but switched to left side some years back and got rid of my righty bows.PM me if you have any more questions. Good luck
 

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Actually draw weight does matter to an extent. A traditional bow stacks as it goes back. Building up to the peak weight.

Most bows are measured at 28" draw. So if it says 55#....it more than likely means 55# at 28" draw.
Thanks for clearing that up (for both of us). I'd like to get one just for giggles. I once met Gene Wensel when he used to come around here for book signings and to show off a collection of B&C bucks that he used to travel with. The Wensel brothers shoot recurves exclusively. I did hear him say that you don't have to come to full draw to kill a deer, but you are probably right. That does NOT mean you are at full draw wieght which I mistook it to mean. With being an instinctive shooter I guess you can guestimate a shot at half draw and make an effective hit.

If you never saw it, Gene Wensel used to put on a great show. He stopped doing it when some dirt bags broke into his trailer and stole a few B&C bucks. Most of these deer weren't even his. They were loaners for the show.
 

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I switched over a few years ago to a Martin Hatfield Recurve. Lots of fun but requires a lot more practice and patience than a compound. I got tired of all the gadgets and tech stuff of the compounds. I still hunt with a compound occasionally but if I have put in the time with the recurve I would use that instead. I was able to buy the bow on EBAY for half the price of 250. It was just like brand new with 2 sets of limbs and extras. So far I have had many close encounters with some very nice deer that would be on my wall if I had the compound!!!!!! One thing to keep in mind...not only will you have to learn to shoot differently, but you will also hunt differently. Shooting distances, stand location...no longer can you draw and wait for the deer to step out from behind the tree....you will have to draw and shoot at just the right moment. Good luck...it's lots of fun and will definately take you to a new level of bowhunting. There are several good books on recurve shooting worth reading to help you understand how to shoot and set up your bow. Brace height and proper twists in the string are also important to each particular bow. I havent been yet, but am told that the Harrisburg Pa. show has lots of vendors for traditional stuff. Probably worth going to try before you buy.
 

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When starting out with a Trad bow , start witha bow 40# to 50#. There is no let-off so you will be pulling & holding the hole poundage not like compounds.

I would find a trad shop or a bow club and try different kinds and weights of trad bows first.

You will loos some length in draw when switching from compound to Longbow/Recurve ( recurve anywhere from 1/2" to 1"....Long bow 1 1/2" to 2" )



Most bows are measured at 28" draw. So if it says 55#....it more than likely means 55# at 28" draw.

With a 27" draw, you will be a little under 55# on said bow.
@ 27" it would be 52#... 3#'s per inch.

1) Which make, model?
2) poundage?
3)Long vs Recurve - why?
4) bow length?
5) materials
1) thats up to you, what fits you best.
2) 40 to 50 to start off with.
3)Long Bow is more foregiving, Recurves are more like a compound with more speed then a long bow, plus they are more likely to be cut-past-center.
4)depends on your draw length, I have a 54" tip to tip long bow and it fits me great, My draw length with it is 26" ( 28" draw with compound )
5) Laminated will last longer & better in bad weather, As long as you keep it in good shape.


Here is the Trad Shop I goto in Washington , NJ.. Stick & String Archery
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All helpful - keep em coming.
 

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Quote:
"Most bows are measured at 28" draw. So if it says 55#....it more than likely means 55# at 28" draw.

With a 27" draw, you will be a little under 55# on said bow."


@ 27" it would be 52#... 3#'s per inch.

Actually that varies by the bow (different designs).

But 3#'s is probably about average.
 

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if you are going traditional, you might want cedar arrows. i don't really know if you can use aluminum. i'd bet that carbon is out of the question
You can use all 3 types of arrows with a trad bow, They have to match your bow to the tee.

Traditional Arrow Chart This is a great Trad chart to go by.
 

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I was watching a show on oln with an individual named Tred Barta, he hunted with a traditional and it was amazing to watch him stalk! Kinda got my interest peaked also. Thanks for asking the question, I learned a lot just now also!
 

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Me and my Long bow kill this year.

Tred is the MAN, Easton Arrows has a show with Fred Eichler and He uses 2 different kinds of recurves.



This DOE was taken with a Shrew LOng Bow 51# @ 26" 550gr Cedar arrow topped with a 125gr Magnus Broadhead
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I 'still-hunt' when I go to Texas and Florida. Tried it up here too.
I believe the trad bow would have been an advantage in some of situations I've been in.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
MG, I'll be asking you questions in due time.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
[up]

To all![up]
 

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Discussion Starter #18
MG - why longbow instead of recurve?
 

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Just feels better to me..... I started off with a bear recurve and when the riser cracked I got this long bow... Great little Long Bow...

Long Bows are more foregiving then Recurves...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I'm avoiding e-bay because of past issues (scams!).

I'll stick with reccomended manufacturers and warantees attached.

I've narrowed down my searches to Bear, Martin and PSE. I'm always open to suggestions.
 
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