New Jersey Hunters banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After I'm done skinning and fleshing a fox I leave the fur in while its drying on my stretchers. Once the hide is done drying I take the fox off the stretcher and then flip it fur out. Does any other trapper do it this way?

Or do you trappers put the fox on the stretcher fur out to begin with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,415 Posts
most dry fur in then flip.

i borax the leather and put right on a board fur out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
I dry fur in then flip on wire.When i use wood, borax leather then on board fur out.Certainly not a pro but this is how I learned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
FOX: Fur in until almost fully dry, then turn inside out. If you wait too long it will be difficult to turn and it may rip. If it is too dry wrap the pelt in a damp towel to rehydrate slightly them turn. After you turn it make sure there is air circulating up inside to finish drying. I usually can turn mine in about 10-12 hours.
YODELDOGS: Same thing but usually overnight until turning. They have thicker, tougher leather. I don't use Borax. Just a personal choice like alot of other trapping stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,394 Posts
question for u guys. If i shoot a fox or yote i will skin it myself. Is there anything i can do to the hide to cure it without getting it professionaly tanned. just looking to hang the pelt on the wall
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,959 Posts
if you want to tan your self try this product its called liqui tan orange bottle f&t trading post carries it works pretty well if you follow the instructions and take your time breaking the pelt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
If you don't tan it yourself or have it done it will rot and bugs will get to it, especially once it gets warm. The orange bottle stuff is easy, just make sure you follow the directions carefully and properly flesh the hide before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,476 Posts
Be real careful about doing your own fox skins. Soaking time is greatly reduced compaired to other animals because the skin is so thin. I have tried a number of home tanning products over the years and have had mixed results. Hide tanning formula(orange bottle) works ok so does Dixietan paste. The only flaw with the liguid and paste mixes is the amout of breaking and flexing of the hide to get it soft after tanning. Rettels makes a kit that works off of a acid bath and relies on PH readings. If your off a little you wind up with a bucket of hair and a very thin piece of leather!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,640 Posts
Be careful when freezeing pelts..DO NOT roll the hide in a ball. the center will take a long time to freeze. Lay it out in the freezer and make sure the fur is dry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,538 Posts
just messed up my first fur. Waited a little too long to flip the fox back. Ripped as i tried to do it. anyone need fox fur for anything? doubt it's worth much to a buyer missing a leg or is it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,870 Posts
Selling Stretched and Dried

All pelts must be scraped free of excess fat.  (Raccoon, otter & beaver must be scraped perfectly clean).
Stretch on proper wire or wood stretchers (beaver should be stretched in an oval pattern).
Raccoon, grey fox, otter, muskrat, mink, opossum, and squirrel are stretched fur-side IN.
Red fox, coyote and fisher are stretched fur-side OUT.
Selling Green (skinned)

The tail bone should always be removed from all skinned raccoon.
Always dry animals in the carcass completely before skinning.
When skinning, cut from back foot to back foot.  Then case out like a rabbit.  (Except beaver, which is skinned up the belly).
Skinned fur must be sold immediately or quick-frozen.
Always freeze the fur FLAT, fur-side OUT, with no exposed flesh.
NEVER roll furs.  NEVER freeze or thaw furs in plastic.
Thaw larger animals with heavy flesh (coyote, raccoon, beaver, badger) 5-6 hours in a cool room or until partially thawed before selling.
NEVER thaw so long that grease melts or skins become slimy.  Keep them cold.  Keep them away from sunlight.
Muskrats should be frozen FLAT and NOT thawed before seeing the buyer.
ALWAYS err on the side of selling something too frozen rather than too thawed.
Selling in the CARCASS (Carcass fur is discounted)

We will NOT buy opossum or skunk in the carcass.
Coyote -- Only FULLY FURRED coyote will have value in the carcass.
We will buy muskrat in the carcass, except in the northern 1/2 of Wisconsin, the UP of Michigan, and Nebraska.
Clean the dirt, blood and burrs from the fur.
Always hang carcass by rear feet in a cool, dark area, away from livestock.  Livestock generate heat and bacteria.
If the weather is warm, freezing may be required.  If frozen, thaw ONLY the feet.  Please do NOT completely thaw the muskrat.
Deer Hide Care

Skins may be sold fresh, frozen or salted, with NO heads or legs.  By law, we can not buy deer hides with head or legs.
FRESH means within a day or two of skinning the deer.  Do NOT let the leather side dry out.  Keep folded with skin side in.
Salted hides must have large chunks of fat removed and must be heavily salted with FINE salt.  Shake hides of excess salt BEFORE arriving at the truck.
Frozen hides should be folded skin side in and rolled tightly.  Allow to thaw only slightly before coming to the truck.
 
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top