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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The regulation book says conibears used in nontidal waters must be fully submerged at normal water levels. the creek I live by is very low right now does that mean if it stays that way till trapping season the trap just has to be below the normal water level mark? Also does anyone use any other conibears besides 110 120 and 330? Cant really use160s or anything for **** since it has to be in the water.
 

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No conibears for ****, its a shame because that is the easy way to catch them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah thats why im wondering it says no killer type trap shall be used in nontidal waters unless completely submerged when water is at its normal level. What if the waters really low? Just as an example spruce run is about 15 feet low right now does that mean I just have to set below the normal water mark? Or is it where ever the water level is is considered the normal level
 

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Normal level is whatever the water is at the time you set the trap. It has to be submerged. Completely. If you come back the next day and the trap is sticking out, you need to pull that trap and set in deeper water somewhere. You cant go by what the water level used to be.

Here's another scenario. Say there is 6 in. of crusty snow, and you set your snare to the max, 24 in. from the walking surface to the top of the loop, and every day for 2-3 days it warms up, and 3" of the snow melts. Are you legal? Is your walking surface changing? study, study,study. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ive been studying didnt study this much in highschool lol thats why I asked I wanted to make sure it wasnt some kind of gray area where im not gonna know how to answer on the test. Do you use anything besides 110 120 and 330? Is there a need for anything in between except for like otter and nutria. But other then that is there a reason id need them around here?
 

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It is illegal to use, set or maintain a body-gripping

or killer-type trap having a jaw spread greater than
6 inches without a permit for beaver or river otter. A
body-gripping or killer-type trap with a jaw spread
of no more than 10 inches may be used for beaver or
river otter. Jaw spread shall be measured between the
inner edges of the jaws across the trigger of a set trap

"Measured across the trigger".... Up to a 160 is allowed. With out a Beaver or Otter permit
 

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oh boy...
water exemption restriction is for tidal only...not freshwater. Everything in good time Krieger..Listen to your instructors. A dead domestic would be a steep price to pay (for all of us) for misinterpreting a reg.
And please consider the intent behind the tidal exemption. Tidal would be one thing..but you mentioned Spruce Run..how long do you think it would be before someone's dog would be killed there..Even if something WERE legal, consider the consequences when theyre predictable..no critter is worth that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No I was just using spruce run as an example. I wouldnt do anything like that on public land even if it was legal for that reason. I have a small creek on my property thats why I was asking.
 

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GREEN HORNS, listen in the class, and learn. don't try to figure ways to get around the laws. We can catch plenty with our regs, we do not need to break laws to catch fur. Matter fact our snaring laws are some of the best in the nation except for TX and Mississippi. Coni's it is real simple 160's 120's and 110's are all you can use with out a beaver /otter permit. they must be cover by water in non tide water. NO CONI"S FOR **** except for in tide water and even then you better understand what you are doing or real problems will happen. PLEASE DO NOT SET BUCKET SETS FOR ****. Being a trapper is not being lazy or taking the easy way, it is learning the animals and what they do. I told a guy the other day if you want to be a good trapper go out now and follow tracks, look for sign and say to your self, where will the animal be every time it come into this area? do look for a spot, That the question is, I wonder if the animal will come to this spot? trapping is a slow learning thing for most, there are those who are GOD GIVEN into trapping but they are far and few between. And remember high population means good numbers, low population means low numbers. can't catch what is not there, so you have to go to the fur! Not pull the fur to you. also there are 2 conventions coming Oct 5th North Jersey and Nov 2 South Jersey If you want to learn go to Both. You boys in the north can be down here in 2 hours, I can be up there in 2 hours. I will be at both just to learn myself. I will be giving a demo on baited snare sets up north so you don't have to use buckets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
******* ill be going to the one in north jersey. Will you have a booth setup or a time youll be doing it? All the reading ive done ive never herd of baited snare sets and would like to learn what they are. If im not going for beaver or otter is there any reason why I should meed anything bigger then 120?
 

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******* ill be going to the one in north jersey. Will you have a booth setup or a time youll be doing it? All the reading ive done ive never herd of baited snare sets and would like to learn what they are. If im not going for beaver or otter is there any reason why I should meed anything bigger then 120?
110 & 120 are the same size except 120 have double spring which there really is no need for. Single is fine for rats and mink. If you need bigger for under a cut out or something a 155 or 160 can be used, but both have double spring.new to trapping stick to 110's for now.
 

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I think I am doing the talk at 9am. I started to write a reply to you about baited snare sets but I will be hi jacking the post so I will post on a new thread. use 100's or 120's till you get the idea of what you are looking for and doing, then move to the 55 or 160. remember it took us ole farts years to learn what we think we know LOL don't try to get there over night, take it slow and easy and you will retain it.
 
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