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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been asked before, but each combination is different. I'm shooting a Matthews MQ32 at 60lb draw. Draw length 27 1/2", shooting 27" Behman carbons with 100gr field points.

I put on some thunderhead 100gr broadheads and they shot 2-3" lower. My sight is a trophy ridge pursuit that is already dialed in (marked on the tape) for out to 30 yards (I won't take any shot beyond 30 in the woods).

What are some broadhead options that wouldn't require complete resighting? I think I need a fixed broadhead. May not have the FPS for mechanical. I'm under so much stress in my personal life that if I don't get in my deer stand soon I'm gonna lose it.


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
In fact, if I get in my deer stand I may not come out for months lol.


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Deer season is only a few days old, ...relax. As far as broad heads, just use something sharp. You have a 9" target. Stop overthinking things, you'll be ok. Remember, it's not about draw weight or fps, it's all about kinetic energy. Was everybody sick that day in physics class?
 

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You are probably gonne get some back talk as the question in general terms has been a topic that flies around. Ignore it.

If you have your bow dialed in right now the exact way you want it, please do yourself a favor and try the Dead Ringer Rampage mechanical heads. Nothing is more frustrating then having to reshoot something that you have been practicing with all summer. Hand to God, these heads shoot dead on the same point of impact as field tips. My daughter's crossbow is shooting the Dead Ringer Rampage 3 blade 1 1/2 inch cut 100 grains. I wouldn't have given my kid anything that I thought didn't have the chance of functioning properly. Dead Ringers offer several options with different weights in both 2 and 3 blade. If you try them you won't be disappointed.

No, I do not work forthe company but I have put my time and research into avoiding exactly what is happening to you.

Her crossbow is only 300fps so your Mathews should be right around there or more I would think.
 

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a properly tuned bow will not require broadhead tuning. if you don't want to take the effort to properly tune your bow or have it properly done by a professional, then you have to broadhead tune. beggers can't be choosers
 

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Every combination is different what one guy uses for field point accuracy will be different for the next guy. Arrow weight spine draw weight draw length shooting habits all make a difference. I know my bow is tuned perfectly. But certain fixed broad heads would fly funny. Most good archery shops will have several spare heads to try and see what works best with your bow.
 

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I'm shooting a Pse 3g stinger set at 47#s draw length 29" 3555 Gold Tip arrows and got a recommendation to try Magnus 2-blade stingers 100 gr. Dropped red fox at 25yds with a heart shot nice entry and exit wound they shoot just as good as my field points. They have replaceable main blades or you can sharpen yourself, made in America and they have a lifetime guarantee.
 

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If your broadheads are shooting 2-3" lower than field points then simply adjust your sight. You will not change a thing on your bow, just your sight. Your sight is "dialed in" for fieldpoints. After all, who cares where your fieldpoints fly when your shooting broadheads. I adjust my sights with the best broadhead that shoots from it and I go hunting till Febuary, I hit deer at 30 and 35 yards where I should and that's what counts.
 

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You are probably gonne get some back talk as the question in general terms has been a topic that flies around. Ignore it.

If you have your bow dialed in right now the exact way you want it, please do yourself a favor and try the Dead Ringer Rampage mechanical heads. Nothing is more frustrating then having to reshoot something that you have been practicing with all summer. Hand to God, these heads shoot dead on the same point of impact as field tips. My daughter's crossbow is shooting the Dead Ringer Rampage 3 blade 1 1/2 inch cut 100 grains. I wouldn't have given my kid anything that I thought didn't have the chance of functioning properly. Dead Ringers offer several options with different weights in both 2 and 3 blade. If you try them you won't be disappointed.

No, I do not work forthe company but I have put my time and research into avoiding exactly what is happening to you.

Her crossbow is only 300fps so your Mathews should be right around there or more I would think.
What you are saying makes sense and you're trying to help. No broadhead flies exactly like a field point out of every bow. Some may be close. Mechanicals of dif sorts could do it but you gotta shoot n see. No guarantees ever. The bow in question in my opinion shoulda been figured out before the season. Hopefully next year
 

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I hate t break it to you but its unusal in my experience to get broadhead tuned perfect with your feild tips right of the bat.

As others have said, check and make sure your bows tuned. Its worth the money (and the savings in agravation) to get it tuned at a good shop if you are having trouble.

Next thing I could suggest is see if you know any friends (or ask a bow shop) if they have a bunch of older braodheads that you can shoot and see if they match your field tips/range marks.

The last thing you can do is if you if your bow is tuned but you can't match the point of impact, is to put aside a few broadheads for pratice on a foam target. It may eat up the taget faster, but at least you know that your going to be hitting the same as if you were shooting in the woods. Good luck.
 

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DRT's, Slick Tricks, and Solids will fly pretty close to FP's as long as bow is tuned. Many others will do well just re sight using broadheads. Or if you want to just hunt the way your bow is set up now use a mech head. A lot of satisfied hunters using the Hypodermics. Match your FP weight and go hunt.
 

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I shoot a set-up very similar to yours, 60# DXT 27.5 draw. Had a difficult time tuning Thunderheads as well. On the other hand, I found it much easier to tune Slick Tricks to hit right with my field points out to 40 yards consistently, only slightly off field points at 60 yards.
 

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If your broadheads and field points do not have the same point of impact it is either a bow tune related issue or an arrow spine issue.

A properly tuned bow with a correctly spined arrow shaft will shoot same point of impact for any broadhead(that spins true) and field points. Shooting mechanical heads to skip around the problem that fixed heads won't hit same poi is only hiding the real issue which is generally incorrect spine. Shooting an arrow with too weak of a spine will hurt penetration causing the arrow to overly flex on impact and not be able transfer all it's energy into the target. It will also cause erratic broadhead flight and poor groups. Some guys will say to just sight in to your broadhead poi, this is again overlooking the real issue of incorrect arrow spine. There are other bow tuning issues that may need to corrected like cam lean, but most of the time the issue is incorrect spine.

Use this broadhead tuning guide to adjust your rest properly to acheive same poi with broadheads and field points: Broadhead Tuning Day Today. If that doesn't work you'll need to start looking at your arrow setup. You can download the free trial version of OnTarget2 at Pinwheel Software - Software For Archers, Tapes And Charts, Shaft Selector to find your optimal spine requirements for your given bow setup to get a good idea of what arrow you'll need. Remember with this program that the more information you put in, the more accurate your results are; garbarge in = garbage out, so be as precise as you can. Read the user guide to find out exactly what it's looking for in all of the inputs. The program is not the finishing step though as you still need to tune your bow to the correct arrow and test to make sure it works. It will help you to understand how the changes you make to the arrow(arrow length, tip weight, fletching weight, etc.) and bow(specific model, draw length, draw weight, weight on string, etc.) effect your optimal spine requirements for any given setup.

I promise you that if you take the time to do what I said you will have a MUCH more accurate and reliable bow setup than what you are currently shooting. You'll be amazed how much tighter your groups are and how much more effective you'll be as a shooter. The rewards are well worth the time you put in.

Here is a great slow motion video that shows an arrow that is too weak in spine coming off a recurve bow to give you an idea of how the energy is lost:
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Just raise your rest or lower your nock point at small incriments about 1/16th or less at a time and see if it gets better. If not its another issue that most likely lies with the spine of your arrow.
 

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If the broadheads are hitting left or right it can be much more of a issue than high or low. If its not the rest, nock point or arrow spine it could be bad cam timing.
 
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