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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am currently using Steelhead 100s, but have seen and heard that while they are deadly, they leave a small bloodtrail. Being that I'm reasonably new to archery, I'd like to get a head that flies like my field tips, but leaves tons of blood.

What would you suggest?

David
 

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Ive taken deer with NAP thunderheads, NAP shockwaves, NAP spitfires, Gametracker Silvertips, Gametracker FirtCut XPs and most recently Magnus Stingers.

The one that caused the most incredible blood trail was the Gametracker Firstcut XP. The holes that thing made were incredible. This was followed closely by the two NAP expandable heads (which made holes like a baseball went through), and the thunderheads which do the intended job. The Silvertips werent so devastating and needed sharpening out of the box.

Ive only shot one deer with the magnus stingers, and the bloodtrail was not all that great. But in all fairness, I forgot to take my quiver off, and hit the lungs a little high and far back, which usually results in less blood. Other than that, they fly like darts, have a lifetime guarantee, and are scary sharp!

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I'm using 100 gr stingers now. Haven't stuck anything yet. Also picked up Wasp Jackhammers to try the mechs.
 

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I am shooting NAP Spitfires this year so far and for the first 10-20 yards there has been very minimal blood. After that, the blood was pretty good. But that was because the exit wound was low, but back so the chest had to fill with blood a little first before it would pump out the hole.

Any sharp BH will give you a good blood trail if the arrow placement allows for a low and forward exit hole.

-dan
 

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I agree with Bowhuntercop..Muzzys..I am currently using 3 blade 125 grain, thats what shoots well from my Parker, and killed 1 bear and 3 deer last year with the same head. Just changed the blades and had to change out the tip once...I have been using the Muzzys for 10 years now and have taken over 40 big game animals with them....I tried spitfires a few years back and took 4 deer with excellent results then had a bad experience with the blades not opening twice..That being said, there are quite a few good broadheads on the market you should use what ever shoots the best from your bow and setup..
 

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"BAD TO THE BONE" I have try them all. Muzzys are awesome use them from the first day they came out. That say, my problem was out to 25 to 35 yards, and the fact that I could not get the heads to hit were the field points hit. To me archery is shot placement with consistency. I was shooting a Browning Mirage the first one that came out in 1989. This year I bought the Mathew Switchback. Shooting this beast was a new experience, so I had to change everything, carbons,release, drop away rest all the goodies. Shooting field points, which by the way I had never use before, I always practice with the muzzy heads. Any way I was shooting so good out to 40 yards, I mean 3 inch groupings, but when I put the muzzys on after 25 yards I was all over the target. My friend comes in and gives me this mechanical head and says: here try this at 40 yards, BANG dead center was sold right there on mechanicals. Now I wanted to see the effect it would have on a big game animal? WOW unreal my first two does droped within 30 yards.
The heads I'm using are Hammerheads 100 grains, opens up an exit hole of 2 inches, accuracy is excellent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, based on feedback from several people and from visiting a few hunting stores, I wound up buying the NAP Spitfires for a few reasons. 1st, I don't wish to have to change my pins for field tips vs fixed blades. Second, the cutting diameter on these are 1-1/2" compared to the 1-1/8" on the Steelhead 100s. 3rd, alot of mechanical users recommended this head. 4th, most of my local stores carry the Spitfires. And lastly, I was able to buy a set of practice blades for the Spitfires so I can practice shooting them without wasting/destroying the blades. This is so helpful because broadheads are just too expensive to go wasting away.

Thanks,
David
 

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David/Yoda

What is your KE? I am assuming that you have enough to use a mechanical?

-dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dan,

To be honest, I don't know. My draw weight is 65 lbs with a minimum of a 27" draw (bow specs 27-29"). Last season my draw weight was 62 lbs and my speed through a chrono was 230. My current setup should be faster due to the higher draw weight.

How do you figure out your KE? What elements are needed? What's the equation to figure it out?

I was worried about the same thing as you are thinking but several shops and more importantly NAP (I called them) said that I should have enough KE to open the Spitfire.

David
 

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David,

Need to know your arrow weight to calculate KE.

KE = ((Arrow Speed squared) X Arrow weight)/ 450240

For me it is:

((280 x 280) X 475)/450240 = 82 and change.

I have a 33" DL and shoot 65 lbs.

-dan
 
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