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Does anyone shoot a fixed blade broadhead that flies the same as a field tip? I shoot a BowTech 2006 Tribute, m [no swearing please] wgt. 4.1 lbs., axel-to-axel 31 ½ “, brace hgt. 7 ½ “, smooth mod, 51#, 27 ¾” draw. My arrows are Easton, LightSpeed 500, 26” length, 6.5 grains per inch, 3” feathers. I am currently using Grim Reaper Razortip mechanical Broadheads 85 grains and would like to switch to a fix blade. I don’t want to practice with my broadheads that is why I would like to find a fixed blade that flies the same as my field tips. Maybe I’m looking for the impossible.
 

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Thunderheads are the way to go.
 

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Rocket Ultimate Steel Broadheads. A six pack is about 25-27 bucks. Check with Drag. I shot them and field tips and they hit side by side. I also shot a 225 pound pig with one and it went through at 25 yards. They have as tough a hide as almost anything.
 

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A fixed blade that flies perfectly out of one bow can fly quite differently from another bow. Any broadhead manufacturer that says their fixed blades "fly just like field points" are making false claims.

Fletch hard helical and it will reduce broadhead flight problems. IMO Magnus makes the best fixed blade on the market. Best guarantee and customer service by a long shot.

Always, ALWAYS practice with your broadheads. EVEN MECHANICALS CAN FLY DIFFERENTLY THAN FIELD POINTS! To not is irresponsible.
 

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Razorcaps....You should see the hole it put in a bear this week
One of the best on the market. I also shoot a Tribute and was going to give them a try with 2" Blazer vanes. I will let you know how they work out for me.
 

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I've shot alot of broadheads, and I switched to Slick Trick 100s last year. Absolutely amazing flying head and the blood trails are incredible. And its a 4 blade, very strong blades as well. It's a very compact head as well, whereas the others mentioned below are quite a bit larger/longer, especially the Razorcaps.

The Thunderheads are a well balanced head as well, but for some reason I didn't get very good blood trails. I shot the 3 blade THs in 125. Alot of guys don't care for the rubber O-ring on them, if you don't secure it evenly, the head will wobble some.

Muzzy's are hit or miss for some guys, but I shot the 3 blade 100s for years and had good success with them.

I haven't shot the Razorcaps, but have heard great things about them. Mean looking head, but pretty long/big.

Good luck Mike, I'd go with the Slick Tricks though! :)
 

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Rocket Ultimate Steel Broadheads
I switched from Thunder Heads to Rocky U S 100's and I am 4 for 4 since. My friend that butchers them said 2 deer looked like they were hit by a truck. I had too many problems with Thunder Heads getting off true from target shooting and blades breaking up on impact with rib bone. With the Rockys there seems to be about a 2" drop compared to field points at about 20-25 yards with my setup (65# compound) but I do not change my sight pin when changing points/broadheads.
 

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Magnus stingers here. The key to shooting fixed blades is a well tuned bow. Theoretically, you can shoot a broadhead without fletching from a perfectly tuned bow and have it hit the same place as a field point.

How is your bare shaft tunning? Hitting in the same place? Not a BH, but field points?
 

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One of the biggest mistakes that I see people make ( I did it for years before I was schooled ) is that most people shoot & tune there bow with field tips...Than when they change over and shoot broadheads the point of impact is differant (not an uncommen thing ) But the mistake that most make is they change there sights to make the broadheads hit dead on...Which will cause the field tips and broadheads to impact in differant spots....What you should do is "tune " your bow to the broadheads... and bring the field tip group and broadhead groups together...

First you need to start off with a well tuned bow..

Shoot as good of a 3-4 arrow group as you are capable of at 20 - 30 yards with your field tips...

Than using the same aiming spot as you did with your field tips...Shoot a group of arrows with your broadheads...Try and shoot as good as a group as you can...

The shoot group is key if you feel that you shot as good as a group with your bradheads that you can...

Than compare the two groups...

If your broadhead group impacted high of your filed tip group ----- Raise your nocking point (make minute changes)

If BH group impact is low of FT group ------Lower Nocking point

If BH group is left of FT group ------ 1- Move arrow rest in towrd bow riser / or 2- increase bow poundage

If BH group is right of FT group ------ 1- Move arrow rest out from riser / or 2- decrease bow poundage

By tuning your bow to the broadheads...You will get the most accuracy and penetration out of them...Since they are now flying true and not fish tailing or pourposeing...

Remember to make very minute adjustments....When done your arrows will have the same point of impact with field tips and broadheads...

I shoot Easton Axis 400's with 2" Blazers and Muzzy 100 gr. 3 bld broadheads...With my set up I had to lower my nocking point about 1 / 32 of an inch....My broadheads fly like darts and pont of impact is now the same as my field tips....

Granted it's easier to just make a sight adjustment to get your broadheads to hit where you need them...But for the best flight and accuracy you should tune your bow so it shoots them straight...

Hope this helps [up]
 

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I do a rough paper tune and then i do a walkback tune from 20 30 40 and 50 yards. I make tiny adjusments till i get my vertical line 99% on. Then the broadheads come out. I have never had a head hit more then 1/2" off after tuning this way. Ive taken everything for razorheads, razorcaps wasp hads thunder heads mechs etc etc etc and i can make them all fly. Just takes time. But a small head like the nitron or a steelhead or such will generally hit identically to a field point.

See its not even so mch hw they impact as much as how STRAIGHT they fly to the target. The straighter they impact the deeper they will penetrate.
 
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