Ok here's the problem...When I shoot my field points I get about a 2-5" group,then I put my broadheads on I'm shooting all over the place,in and out of the kill zone. I've tried the 2 kinds of BHs that I have always shot,125 3 blade Thunderheads and 125 3 blade muzzys. I'm shooting carbons so I can't line the blades up with the fletching,could this be the problem? I'm geting so damn frustrated [mad][mad][mad]
AAAAAARGH!!!...Shooting dilemma...HELP!!!
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DBuck,
Sounds like your bow is out of tune. Have you shot it though paper recently? Shot a bare shaft? Is this a new change? Maybe string or cable stretch?
Could be you are torqueing the bow because of the anticipation of the BH shot?
With BH, you FOB changes slightly, and an arrow that seemed spined correctly for field points may behave a little stiff with the BH.
What vanes / feathers are you shooting? Helical may help.
-dan
Sounds like your bow is out of tune. Have you shot it though paper recently? Shot a bare shaft? Is this a new change? Maybe string or cable stretch?
Could be you are torqueing the bow because of the anticipation of the BH shot?
With BH, you FOB changes slightly, and an arrow that seemed spined correctly for field points may behave a little stiff with the BH.
What vanes / feathers are you shooting? Helical may help.
-dan
Dan I shoot straight feathers but I'm getting arrows refletched with Vanes made up,they should be ready tomorrow. I'm going to take my bow with me and maybe Jim from the owls nest can help me out,I do hope so...Thanks for your response[up]
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Try a helical on the vanes, not just an offset, but a true helical. That should help alot.
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I don't think it makes much difference but you can heat the carbon a little. a torch is best, and align the tips. The glue for carbon is a low heat glue, if they were done properly. Good luck. You don't want to use the stove, you should have control over the area to be heated.
Also maybe try slick tricks , There Grrrrrreat.
Also maybe try slick tricks , There Grrrrrreat.
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Can you post details of your setup?
Bow, draw length, arrow length, draw weight, release, loop or no loop, arrow type, arrow spine, etc.
The more we know, the more we can help you.
It sounds like the bow is out of tune, and or the spine of your arrows is off. (most likely weak) Shooting a release aid, its always best to go with a slightly stiffer arrow.
If your arrow happens to be too stiff, you could go with heavier tips. If its too weak, you could go with lighter tips or crank the bow weight down some.
I also agree with the others about feathers and helical fletching. Straight fletch can be touchy with broadheads and vanes can really throw an arrow off if they are contacting the rest.
If you cant get the problem solved with your shop, bring it over to ELBait, and I will have a look at it with you.
On a side note, heating carbons is not a good idea. The heat can ruin the bond of fibers causing the arrow to weaken. Which can cause an arrow failure. Try mixing and matching broadheads/arrows to get the blades lined up. (It shouldnt matter if the bow is tuned, but I know its one of those things that just gives you piece of mind)
Bow, draw length, arrow length, draw weight, release, loop or no loop, arrow type, arrow spine, etc.
The more we know, the more we can help you.
It sounds like the bow is out of tune, and or the spine of your arrows is off. (most likely weak) Shooting a release aid, its always best to go with a slightly stiffer arrow.
If your arrow happens to be too stiff, you could go with heavier tips. If its too weak, you could go with lighter tips or crank the bow weight down some.
I also agree with the others about feathers and helical fletching. Straight fletch can be touchy with broadheads and vanes can really throw an arrow off if they are contacting the rest.
If you cant get the problem solved with your shop, bring it over to ELBait, and I will have a look at it with you.
On a side note, heating carbons is not a good idea. The heat can ruin the bond of fibers causing the arrow to weaken. Which can cause an arrow failure. Try mixing and matching broadheads/arrows to get the blades lined up. (It shouldnt matter if the bow is tuned, but I know its one of those things that just gives you piece of mind)
Try shooting mechanicals, you'll have no problems. I had the same trouble you are having year after year. Vanes, feathers, healical, offset, would get my bow checked to make sure it was tuned, NADA! I could never get my arrows to fly consistantly with broadheads, so I switched to mechanicals. Wasp Jackhammer 100's or Spitfire 100's, they will get the job done. Good Luck !
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DBuck,
Aren't we neighbors? If Jim can't get you straight, you could stop by, I have a make shift paper set up, and know a little about bow tuning. When was the last time your string and cables were replaced? My guess is you are slightly out of spec and the bow is slightly out of time. Easy fix with out replacing the cables/string could be to tiller tune, but that may not be a can of worms you want to open.
Have Jim check all the measurements (ATA and brace height) also if you have timing marks, are they where they should be?
good luck,
dan
Aren't we neighbors? If Jim can't get you straight, you could stop by, I have a make shift paper set up, and know a little about bow tuning. When was the last time your string and cables were replaced? My guess is you are slightly out of spec and the bow is slightly out of time. Easy fix with out replacing the cables/string could be to tiller tune, but that may not be a can of worms you want to open.
Have Jim check all the measurements (ATA and brace height) also if you have timing marks, are they where they should be?
good luck,
dan
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I know my names not Dan, but yes he could easily shoot good fp groups with an out of tune bow.
An out of tune bow can put arrows in the same hole out of a shooting machine. Its the human behind the bow, and the fact that it has bh's on the front of the arrows, that makes tuning necessary.
So far Dan seems to be right on the money.[up]
An out of tune bow can put arrows in the same hole out of a shooting machine. Its the human behind the bow, and the fact that it has bh's on the front of the arrows, that makes tuning necessary.
So far Dan seems to be right on the money.[up]
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I ONLY SHOOT BROADHEADS. I ALWAYS HAD PROBLEMS SWITCHING FROM FP TO BH AND ALWAYS HAD TO RE TUNE BOW,SITE,ECT. ( 1 THING I WOULD CHECK FIRST IS TO MAKE SURE YOUR FP ARE THE SAME WEIGHT AS YOUR BH ) FIXED BROADHEADS COULD BE PLANING ,SHOOT A HARD HELICAL FLETCH IT MIGHT SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM.
WHEN YOU GET IT SHOOTING GOOD WRITE DOWN EVERY THING BRACE HEIGHT, TILLER ,CAM POSITION,DRAW WEIGHT,CENTER SHOT, NOCK,ARROW, BH. WITH THIS INFORMATION YOU CAN ALWAYS TUNE YOUR BOW.[up]
WHEN YOU GET IT SHOOTING GOOD WRITE DOWN EVERY THING BRACE HEIGHT, TILLER ,CAM POSITION,DRAW WEIGHT,CENTER SHOT, NOCK,ARROW, BH. WITH THIS INFORMATION YOU CAN ALWAYS TUNE YOUR BOW.[up]
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i found that thunderheads shoot better without the rubber washers. just my 2 cents. hope it helps
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Yeah, thats actually the best advice so far. Dont know how it slipped my mind. I think I just take some stuff for granted, ya know what I mean. Thats something I just always do, and I just figure everyone does.
VERY good point though.
If your broadheads wobble at the insert at all, you will have terrible flyers.
Good job 35.[up]
Ok I think I have it figured out.First of all thanks to everyone that tried help me out with their suggestions.
Second of all,muzzys suck out of my bow.
Now see if this makes sense,I just switched to the whisker biscuit,my arrows are set up with [no swearing please] feather down for the other rest that I had on. well I was shooting with the [no swearing please] feather down through the WB and I noticed that one of the feathers was lined up with the the slot that you load the arrow through,so I turned my [no swearing please] feather up and and walah,way better. I think what was happening is there wasn't equal resistance on all feathers and it was making my arrows fly out of wack. Does this make sense?
Second of all,muzzys suck out of my bow.
Now see if this makes sense,I just switched to the whisker biscuit,my arrows are set up with [no swearing please] feather down for the other rest that I had on. well I was shooting with the [no swearing please] feather down through the WB and I noticed that one of the feathers was lined up with the the slot that you load the arrow through,so I turned my [no swearing please] feather up and and walah,way better. I think what was happening is there wasn't equal resistance on all feathers and it was making my arrows fly out of wack. Does this make sense?
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I think there are two posibilities. Someone already mentioned helical fletching. It your are shooting straight fletched arrows with broadheads it will not shoot consistantly. Broadheads need to spin slightly in flight.
The other thing is the broadhead point concentricity. Most archery pro shops have a fixture to spin the arrows. If you spin the arrow on this fixture and the tip of the broadhead wobbles you have a problem with the way the inserts are installed in the arrow.
The other thing is the broadhead point concentricity. Most archery pro shops have a fixture to spin the arrows. If you spin the arrow on this fixture and the tip of the broadhead wobbles you have a problem with the way the inserts are installed in the arrow.
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Yep, makes sense. Contact with the rest (or lack there of in this case) can cause arrow flight problems.
Glad you got it straightened out.
-dan
Glad you got it straightened out.
-dan
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