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Thread: 50 cal. Hawkins

  1. #11
    Dominant Buck
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    loaded4bear's Avatar
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    I have a 50 cal. Hawkins that I have never shot yet and would like some recommendations on how many grains of blackpowder and what grain sabot I should try before going to the field.
    If it's a Thompson Center Hawken rifle, here's a link to an online version of the original owner's manual from T/C:

    http://www.tcarms.com/assets/manuals...owder_Guns.pdf

    Lots of important safety information, & a bunch of load data on the back pages!

    Hope this helps...
    "Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet."

  2. #12
    Rack Buck Memphis1211's Avatar
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    Thank you for all the help and advice. Today I bought a box of Cold Swagged 175 grain Round Balls made by T/C, 2F blackpowder and prelubed patches. For economical as well as old time sake I went with the Round Balls. From what I have been told They dont have much knock down power, however I will be sighting my muzzleloader in at 50 yards. If anyone has any advice in regards to what I will be shooting I would appreciate it.

  3. #13
    Monster Buck mikec's Avatar
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    From what I have been told They dont have much knock down power
    I have killed many deer with PRB's, actually never lost one. You do your part and it will do it's part. More animals have been killed by a ball than any other type of projectile. PRB's have been and still are in use for hundreds of years. Lots of great American history around traditional muzzleloading.

    Little advice. Run a wet cleaning patch, not soaked and dripping down the barrel followd by a dry patch after every 3rd shot and you won't have any problems with loading and accuracy. Windshield washer fluid works just fine and you can pre-soak some patches.

    It's good your using a PRB. No worries about lead fouling so cleaning is easy and quick. If you have any questions about cleaning just ask.

    If you don't have the following I would recommand purchasing it.

    Ball puller.
    Patch worm.
    Short starter.
    Range rod.
    Powder measure.
    Cupped cleaning jag.
    Extra nipple.
    Brass straight capper for your caps.

    Of course there are many more accoutrements but that is all you need to get going.

    Here is a great website for you to check out. www.trackofthewolf.com

  4. #14
    Rack Buck Memphis1211's Avatar
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    Thanks mickec, I appreciate the advice. You seem to know alot about muzzleloading. I am glad that I went with the PRB's as well. A question about cleaning I have is if you clean the barrel by sucking soapy water through the barrel with the ram rod like a pump. Is there an easier way or is that the best. I remember my grandfather did it like that.

  5. #15
    Dominant Buck
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    Buffalo bullets

  6. #16
    Monster Buck Setters4Life's Avatar
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    If it's a T/C, I'd start with the T/C MaxiBall. I've yet to see a T/C that didn't shoot this bullet well. Experiment with your powder charge for accuracy. I've also had good luck with Buffalo Bullets in my T/C.
    If only Jack O'Connor had written about the .270's effectiveness on Zombies, he might be known today as a decent gun scribe, and that cartridge might enjoy more widespread use...

  7. #17
    Non Typical buckmasterTate's Avatar
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    I HAD MINE SHOOTING AWSOME THEN I WAS ALL OVER THE PLACE AND HAVENT SHOT IT AGAIN BUT I HAVE TO BREAK HER OUT AGAIN THIS YEAR SO FUNN IN THE WOODS WITH THAT BITCH FEELS LIKE I AM WAITING FOR A BRITISH RED COAT TO COME BY HAHAHHA GOOD LUCK BUDDY
    I USED TO SHOOT BIG DEER!!!!!

  8. #18
    Rack Buck Memphis1211's Avatar
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    My grandfather used buffalo bullets, I heard that company isnt making them anymore.

  9. #19
    Monster Buck mikec's Avatar
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    Buffalo bullets are no longer produced but some shops still have some on the shelf. The Hornaday Great Plains conical is basically the exact same conical.

    You have a hooked breech as did the original Hawken rifle. You can remove the barrel and pump water but there is a better way.

    I use flintlocks and don't have that option being the barrel is pinned to the stock and basically they never get removed except for a repair.

    Remove the barrel and run a cleaning patch or two down it soaked in the windshield washer fluid to get most of the residue out, then plug up the nipple with something, large toothpick, stick or a feather quill. I use the following mixture. I mix up about a pint at a time just so it's handy.

    3 parts alcohol.
    2 parts hydrogen peroxide.
    1 part murphy's oil soap.

    Many will say the peroxide is not good for the metal which it's not but your not leaving it down the barrel for long and it eats black powder residue.

    Pour a little down the barrel don't need more than maybe a quarter of a shot glass. Put your finger over the muzzle and work it up and down a few times, then dump it out. Run a patch or two and repeat, after the second time keep running patches until the bore is dry and the patches are clean, shouldn't take many. Run an oiled patch down the bore and the barrel is done.

    Remove the nipple and clean it up a bit more and the outside of the barrel with a wet rag dipped in either soapy water or the winshield washing fluid, dry, oil and reinstall.

    No need to remove the lock with a percussion lock, just clean it up with a rag and some warm soapy water or just use the windshield washing fluid, oil it up with a oiled patch and your done, just take care to get inside the hammer with a Q-Tip or something.

    Wipe down the stock, hook in the barrel and do whatever you do to any other firearm on the outside before it goes back in the case.

    It should only take about 15 to 20 minutes to clean it up, quicker when you do it a few times.

    Oh...If you ever head to cabelas in PA just off of 78 a few miles before Cabelas in Kempton is Dixon's Muzzleloading Supply. This is a rare amazing store and a must stop. I enjoy Dixon's more than Cabelas. Check out the website. www.dixonmuzzleloading.com

  10. #20
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    have the same gun, and shoot 300 gr. maxi balls with 80 gr. of pyrodex tac driver


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