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NJ Hunter / New Jersey Deer, Bear & Turkey Hunting / Deer Action / Deer Zone 3 / What weight does everyone have thier bow at?
Posted:  05 Feb 2008 9:33 PM
72lbs.  Just because I'm an idiot.  I'm going down to lower 60's for next season.

My oldest son shoots 42, my middle son shoots 33 and my youngest a measily 30.  They all kill deer dead.
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Posted:  05 Feb 2008 9:35 PM
65...bear.

you only need the kinetic energy stored in an arrow shot from a 94lb bow when your shooting deer through cinder blocks at 30 yards...
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Posted:  05 Feb 2008 9:46 PM
60# On my old Indian Hawkeye Its realy time for a new bow
Posted:  05 Feb 2008 9:48 PM
Quote:
my middle son shoots 33 and my youngest a measily 30
isn't the law 35lbs min.
Posted:  05 Feb 2008 9:50 PM   Last Edited By: flat9999
1250 lbs. draw weight.
350 grain carbon arrow getting close to 3200fps.
Got that baby dead-on at 0-300 yards with 1 pin, 9th pin is good all the way out 1500yds.

Downside is that Iv'e never recovered an arrow
Posted:  05 Feb 2008 9:52 PM
Quote:
isn't the law 35lbs min.


bloodtrails doesnt live in NJ
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Posted:  05 Feb 2008 9:54 PM
You guys shooting over 80lbs how stiff are your arrows?
Posted:  05 Feb 2008 9:57 PM
Quote:
1250 lbs. draw weight.
350 grain carbon arrow getting close to 3200fps.
Got that baby dead-on at 0-300 yards with 1 pin, 9th pin is good all the way out 1500yds.

Downside is that Iv'e never recovered an arrow


...because they disintegrate as they exit earths atmosphere
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Posted:  05 Feb 2008 10:21 PM
In the Sig.

PETE
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Posted:  05 Feb 2008 10:24 PM
62 at start of season, about down to 58 for cold winter bow hunts, but not this year stayed to warm.
Posted:  05 Feb 2008 10:27 PM
Switchie, bottomed out to 72# for hunting
Apex Conquest at 50# for spots
Ultra Elite at 60# for spots and 3-d
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Posted:  05 Feb 2008 10:43 PM
Quote:
62 at start of season, about down to 58 for cold winter bow hunts, but not this year stayed to warm.


Do you paper tune both poundages?
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 7:23 AM
Quote:
hey people kill deer just fine with 35 lbs.... when ur sitting still for hours cold and stiff it makes it alot harder to pull the bow back. it could cost you the buck of a life time down the road. at 51 lbs i kill deer just fine...


Absolutely agree!!! So many people are overbowed, even at 65+ pounds I see grown men who struggle.

For what reason? Its bowhunting, not a strongman competition.

Heavy weight:

-hard to draw back smooth and slow, making it easier for deer to spot your movement.

-usually noisier, unless you add all sorts of silencing items to your string and cables which slows the string down considerably.

-more stressful on the bow, accessories, and the archer.

-a deer is pretty much thin skin with jello in between. no need for KE to kill a cape buffalo. If you're worried about the shoulder blade, stop aiming at it.

-drawing a bow of proper weight, allows you to setup the correct muscles for proper shooting form, which allows you to be more consistent. Involving the wrong muscles during the draw, while seemingly inconsequential, is actually very vital to consistent accuracy.

46#'s has been working for me, always get pass throughs.

Shoot whatever heavy draw weight you want, but its just gonna put the arrow deeper into the dirt. It'll also ruin your shoulder eventually if you shoot enough.
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 8:41 AM
Quote:
Heavy weight:

-hard to draw back smooth and slow, making it easier for deer to spot your movement.

-usually noisier, unless you add all sorts of silencing items to your string and cables which slows the string down considerably.

-more stressful on the bow, accessories, and the archer.
When I started bow hunting, and asked this question the short answer was "the differrence between a 50lb bow and a 60 lb bow is how far into the dirt the arrow went after it passed through the deer.

But now, after 20+ years of bow hunting I have changed my mind. What I get in exchange for the heavy weight is a straight/flat trajectory out to about 30 yards. So when I have to shoot that buck of a lifetime at 30 yards, and all I got as a target is a 4 " hole in the surrounding trees-I want to be sure I'll get the hit I'm after and not worry about clipping a branch.

I shoot a switch back bottomed out to 73#. With easton Axis 340's and a 100 grain broadbhead, I'm shooting at 291 FPS actual hunting speed and have a single pin to 30 yards with a flat trajectory which is what's important to me.
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 9:09 AM
62# on my Tomkat

Someone gave me a good piece of advice.....you should be able to be sitting, with bow up in front of you, and draw the bow straight back without struggling.
Posted:  06 Feb 2008 9:55 AM
X Tec @ 75#
Trykon @ 70#
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 10:46 AM
Mathews #67
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 11:00 AM   Last Edited By: super x
Mathews 69# On Duty
Bear recurve 46# On Duty

Hoyt 64# Retired
Martin 74# Retired
Oregon 71# Retired
Bear compound 55# Retired
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 12:08 PM
My hoyt is set at 74... my martin at 78... and my old bear at 46.
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 12:24 PM
Quote:
Someone gave me a good piece of advice.....you should be able to be sitting, with bow up in front of you, and draw the bow straight back without struggling.

gfod way to hurt the shoulder...that encourages bad form...its all about the line/bone structure buddy.
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 12:37 PM
Quote:
When I started bow hunting, and asked this question the short answer was "the differrence between a 50lb bow and a 60 lb bow is how far into the dirt the arrow went after it passed through the deer.


Yup, that about sums it up. Its a deer, not an elephant.

Quote:
But now, after 20+ years of bow hunting I have changed my mind. What I get in exchange for the heavy weight is a straight/flat trajectory out to about 30 yards. So when I have to shoot that buck of a lifetime at 30 yards, and all I got as a target is a 4 " hole in the surrounding trees-I want to be sure I'll get the hit I'm after and not worry about clipping a branch.

I shoot a switch back bottomed out to 73#. With easton Axis 340's and a 100 grain broadbhead, I'm shooting at 291 FPS actual hunting speed and have a single pin to 30 yards with a flat trajectory which is what's important to me.



First of all, I hate to burst anyones bubble, but an arrow has to travel much MUCH faster than 300fps to have flat trajectory from 0-30 yards. I used to know the number off hand, but I believe it is 900fps or thereabouts. Sure you can use one pin, but you either need to compensate for drop, or arent realizing your full accuracy potential.

Second, you can obtain "flatter" trajectory out of a low poundage bow by using lighter arrows. Its all relative. You need to be using a safe weight for your draw weight. (other factors come into play when choosing grains per pound of draw) The lighter your draw weight, the lighter the arrow you can use.

When possible, I'd rather trim discrete shooting lanes well in advance to the season than have a 4" hole to shoot through.

Now I'm not saying your way is wrong. You can do whatever you like, but many very successful bowhunters see the benefits of reducing their draw weights. The average distance a whitetail deer is killed with the bow, is around 17-18 yards. Thats pretty close. I'll take a smooth, easy to draw, quiet as a mouse, deadly accurate, low poundage bow over the heavy draw weights any day of the week.

In my opinion, the pros, far outweigh the cons when it comes to using a lighter draw weight.

What is "light"? Thats for each individual to decide. Light for me, used to be about 55-60#, it was very easy to control...Now with a bad shoulder, 45# is very light and doesnt cause me concern for my shoulder.

I know some guys draw 70# like I draw 45#, but I see a lot of guys that would be much better off cranking the bow down by about 10-20#.

Draw weight doesnt kill the deer, sharp arrows in the vitals do.

I'm rambling though...
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 12:42 PM
Matty on a 60/70lbs bow how low can one drop before the limbs are to far out of pocket to shoot?  A safety thing here...could you get away with dropping to 58-60# and still be able to shoot it safely?
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 12:51 PM
Deadbolt,

Its not so much about the limbs out of the pockets as it is the slack in the cables.

Let me elaborate.

Most bows have pockets that move with the limbs now-a-days. Most bows also have limb bolts that are 2.5" or longer. To drop below the manufac. suggested draw weight by a few pounds is USUALLY not going to put the bow in any danger of stripping limb bolt threads or popping a limb out of a pocket.

The cable system on the other hand becomes very slack when the static limb deflection changes too greatly. (in other words, not enough bend in the limbs to keep tension on the string/cables). This can cause the string and or cables to jump the cam tracks.

I dont suggest messing with draw weight too much if you arent comfortable working on bows, but if you have a press and can check limb bolt length and keep enough tension on the string system, you can go a lot lower than manuf. suggested draw weights.

There are other ways of decreasing draw weight by messing with string/cable lengths and cam timing (not to be confused with synchronization)

When I blew out my shoulder, I took a 50-60# ultratec, and brought it down to about 32#. Hard to tell, but the limbs are cranked out quite a bit. I messed with string cable lengths to obtain what I needed to keep shooting through my injury.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/Matt867/MattyShootingwMouth.jpg
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 1:11 PM
65# Alpine Stealth.
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 1:19 PM
Quote:
gfod way to hurt the shoulder...that encourages bad form...its all about the line/bone structure buddy


Point being,if you can't draw the bow without straining.....It's too heavy! Should you have to swing your bow to draw it?
Posted:  06 Feb 2008 1:27 PM
I shoot 70 lbs. But I am in favor of shooting 60 lbs.. I really want to shoot 60 with 80% let off...
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 1:31 PM
65lbs
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Posted:  06 Feb 2008 2:07 PM
Maxed out at 72 pounds.
Posted:  06 Feb 2008 2:59 PM
73lbs. Hoyt 38 Ultra
Posted:  06 Feb 2008 3:20 PM
57 # Hoyt Lazortec
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